traveloque

Kutch

2011-12-13T05:18:00.000-08:00

(If you’re reading this to plan a trip to Kutch go straight to the bottom. If you have time read the entire trip story, read on. This time instead of putting up pictures, i've put up a video with all of them back to back. That too, is after the entire story)

Epilogue

I knew this would be one hell of a trip, the moment I missed my train.

Flashback time. On Wednesday, 7^th December night, 0050 hrs, I had to catch my train from Vasai Road, on the outskirts of Mumbai. So I left from work by a good 2230 hrs and reached the station at 2340 hrs. Which meant I had a good one hour and 10 minutes for my train. I spent another 40 minutes walking around the station and having a quick dinner.

I was at the station by 00:13. I headed to the ticket counter and enquired about the train to Bhuj. I got the shock of my life when he mocked me and said I was late, by a good 24 hours. I was dumbstruck. It was one of those moments you wished your head came with an automatic pop up blocker. Thoughts wouldn’t stop popping out of my mind. “How hard will my roommate laugh when i return?” “How will my colleagues ridicule me?” “Do I book the train for tomorrow” “Do I go to office tomorrow?” Luckily I knew the answer to the last question. I was not going to office for sure, I was on leave for 2 days, followed by a 2 day weekend.

So now I had to think fast. The only thing i could think of was heading home. So without wasting a a minute, I asked the man at the counter to give me a ticket to Mahim. He looked at me with a smirk and pointed to a train two platforms away from us and said “Wo last train jarahi hai”, it’s leaving. I couldn’t get a ticket. Even worse, I couldn’t hop on to the last train.

Now I was clueless and stuck at Vasai Road. I never thought I could ever get stuck in such a way in or around Mumbai. Moreover the area was not even slightly familiar. The nearest person I knew was a colleague who lived in Bhyander. I had no idea about the distance between both the places but I knew they weren’t many stations apart. So I called Madhav and told him the entire story. He told me to catch an auto and come over. He told me the rickshaw wallas would charge exorbitant rates but don’t pay anything more than Rs. 250-300. But to my dismay, or should I say luck, the best bargain I could get was Rs. 500. I refused to go. I could kill 3 hours in the station and take the first train to Mahim. I called Madhav and told him that I wouldn’t come over. He agreed to my decision and added that he was about to call me and tell me to do the same. The route is not all that safe, he added.

So I was just passing my time at the station, when I hit upon the idea of going to the platform meant for outstation trains. From there, I could get a train for a nearer station like Mumbai Central or CST. So I walk down that platform and there were many people over there, which made me feel better at the wee hour of the night. Some were sitting on their luggage, some lying down on benches while some were just walking up and down like me. After walking down the platform for a while, I pass an approachable looking man sitting alone on a bench. He would’ve been my father’s age. So I thought I could strike a conversation with him. I told him that i missed my last train. He suggested I go to Virar, the next stop (there was still a train or two left for Virar). He said that there was a better chance of trains coming from outside Mumbai would stop at Virar. I nodded and thought against it. Whiling 3 hours at the same station sounded like a better idea.

So out of courtesy, I asked him where he was headed. Dehradun, he said. He said he was catching the Dehradun Express that went via Baroda. He had no obligation or need to mention Baroda at that point. I didn’t even tell him that I was headed to Kutch. But then, I guess it’s that thing they say about everything having a reason.

So the moment, he said Baroda, a spark lit up in my mind. I turned around and asked him, ‘How about I go to Baroda instead? Anyway, I was planning to go to Kutch.’ And that man, being the rockstar he was, nonchalantly added that the general compartment would not be as crowded.

The train was coming in 10 minutes, which left me with no time to get a ticket. I thought I had enough to pay the fine, in case I get caught. So 10 minutes later, I hopped on to the general class. It was slightly crowded. I had enough place to put my bag on the ground and sit on it. I even had the side of a berth to lean on. It was going well until a few stops later when a large chunk of people got off. After that, I got a proper seat. I slept intermittently as there were idiots who, out of nowhere would come and sit on my foot or smash my face with their bags. So with a fair amount of sleep, I reach Baroda at 6 in the morning.

I then booked a 630 pm sleeper bus for Bhuj which would reach the next morning around 630 am. So with a good 12 hours to spend in Baroda, I would watch the Dirty Picture, walk out somewhere in between (What an intolerable overtly loquacious overkill of verbally constipated dialogues. Phew!), surfing the net, breaking the strap of my bag, getting it repaired, going to Kamati Gardens, Lakshmi Vilas Palace and then spending another few hours in the mall again, eating, napping and watching Sehwag score his double century.

Kamati Garden is this centrally located garden which has a museum and a tiny zoo in it too. I didn’t go to the museum because I believe museums are meant for L K Advani to feel nostalgic. And to my dismay, the zoo was shut, being a Thursday. Nonetheless, I could catch a glimpse of the animals from across the walls which weren’t too high. They had a few deers, monkeys, peacocks and crocodiles who were playing statue and ended up taking the game too seriously. From there I went to Lakshmi Vilas Palace, where the royal family still lives. The entry was Rs.150 and the man at the gate didn’t have change for Rs.500, so I spent the rest of the time at the Seven Seas mall and then went off to catch my bus at 630 pm. It left by around 7 pm.

KUTCH

Friday, 9^th December, I reach Bhuj at around 7 am. I had been planning the trip for a long time and finally I was there on a full moon weekend. This weekend however, also had a lunar eclipse to offer. The time I had in time to do my research on Kutch before my journey was very limited, but then, so was the information on the internet. But then, a friend, Vinit, helped me out with his friend’s father’s number, who had been in Kutch for quite a while and he knew the place inside out. I was in constant touch with him over the phone. So any time in doubt there, I would just call Mr. Ayyagiri.

For the trip, all I had figured out was that I had to cover Dhordo, the white ran and Kalo Dungar, the black hill. Oops! That just sounded like a dialogue from the Dirty Picture. That apart, I also planned to visit the Mandvi beach, if time permitted me. I had also found out about a place called Lakhpat which was close to the desert, known for a fort and a gurudwara.

So after having tea and loitering around for a while, I reached the bus terminal and enquired about the bus to Dhordo. They said it would leave at 230 pm. It was just 830 then. So I asked them about Mandvi and they pointed to a bus that was leaving and told me to catch it. I hopped on and was on my way to one of the most famous beaches in Gujarat, 50 kms from Bhuj. The roads were nice and unwinding with hills and the desert on both sides. It made for a decent view. Now here’s one thing I learnt early on the trip. Kutchis look at cameras like they are UFOs. They can’t stop staring at cameras and you can’t decipher the look on their face while they do so. Nonetheless, I kept clicking pictures as the day was slowly getting warmer.

I knew I was close the beach when I saw huge boat skeletons. The huge structures made out of wood, anywhere in Gujarat are a clear indication that you’re close to water. At around 1030, I was at the Mandvi Beach Bus Stop. From the Bus stop, the beach is again a 10 minute ride on an autorickshaw. The auto fellow would take me for Rs. 30. En route he mentioned the Vijay Vilas Palace and asked me if I would like to see that as well. With just 2 hours to spend in Mandvi, I told him, I would tell him later, once I was done with the beach.

The beach was neat and the sea was pleasantly blue, especially for someone coming from Mumbai. It was slightly crowded and a good place for a family outing. There were camel rides, horse rides and speedboats. And it was also clean enough to take a swim. I had a serious crunch of time, so I just decided to take a stroll on the beach. Now here’s a very good thing about the Mandvi beach. It’s only a small stretch of the beach that’s crowded. There’s a long stretch with not a soul, just windmills in a straight line and sea gulls flying over the place. The sea gulls are a kind, you rarely find on Indian beaches. So I had a nice stroll away from the crowd. It was breezy and warm at the same time and the sea gulls made for some nice pictures. It was as though they’d learnt to pose for pictures.

As I was taking a stroll, a small handmade heap of sand caught my attention. It had a human face drawn on it. To one side was the om sign and to the other side there was a crescent and a star. Behind it, there was a tent. On entering the tent, there were many such heaps of sand and kids were creating art on them. Mostly, maps of India, Gujarat, religious signs. Depicting everything, we claim to teach our kids.

It was a competition organised for the Rann Utsav, the desert festival which takes place every year around December-January. Great, so I was right on time for the Rann Utsav. On enquiring further about the Utsav, I came to know that on that very night there would be a Carnival in Bhuj and the next day, the festival would be taking place at Dhordo. Which meant a change in plan. Dhordo would have to wait till the next day. But just then, I wondered if a ‘carnival’ in Bhuj would be worth it. So I called Mr. Ayyagiri for a second opinion. His immediate reaction to the word ‘Bhuj Carnival’ cleared all dilemma. “It is utter nonsense” he said. He added that if you’re a nature lover, it would be better to visit some place like Kalo Dungar. So the itinerary was set, Kalo Dungar today evening and Dhordo tomorrow. Before leaving, I would have a tender coconut. Despite hailing from the land of coconuts and having tried tender coconut from all over the country, I have to mention, that was the sweetest tender coconut ever. Period.

Done with the beach and with one hour to spare at Mandvi, I asked the autowala to take me to Vijay Vilas Palace. The palace had a Rajput architectural style and was built out of red sandstone. Photography was not allowed inside the palace. The palace was decent in terms of size, not very opulent for one. It had around four rooms, all of which seemed to be living rooms. One interesting thing inside the palace were a huge stuffed tiger and cheetah. You could see the skin was real as there were quite evident stitch marks all over the animals. They were majestic and scary.

On a wall at the palace, they had a family tree of the ruling Jadeja dynasty. Which brought many questions my mind. Where does the royal family stay now? What happened to these princely states after independence? And more importantly, will Ravindra Jadeja play in the next series? Outside the palace, I again had tender coconut. And I was convinced that the tender coconut at the beach was not a one off. I now swear by Mandvi tender coconuts and Bhuj Niro. That’s yet to come.

After the short stint at the Vijay Vilas, it was time to head to Bhuj to head to Kalo Dungar. As the autofellow stopped at the Mandvi bus stop, I asked him ‘kitna hua?’, how much, to which he replied ‘apni marzi se dedo’, it’s up to you. The irony however, was that later on he commanded Rs. 200 for the whole trip. I was in no mood to argue so I handed over Rs. 200 and walked to the bus. A two hour ride later I was in Bhuj.

At Bhuj, I was enquiring about the timings for buses to Kalo Dungar. Now Kalo Dungar in Gujarati or Kutchi I suppose, means black hill. It is the highest point in Kutch and is barely 50 kms away from Pakistan. And there are no direct buses from Bhuj to Kalo Dungar. You have to go to Khavda first and then arrange for something from there. From Khavda, Kalo Dungar is some 18 kms uphill. The next bus to Khavda was half an hour later. And as the name Khavda makes me hungry for some reason, I grabbed a samosa. The samosa tasted like nothing i’ve ever had in my life. And mostly, nothing close to a samosa. Nonetheless, no complaints. After the samosa, I would go to this tiny shop at the bus terminal where they had Amul chaas and lassi predominantly. So I asked the shopkeeper, an old man, for Chhas. He looked at me as though I had asked him to show me a diamond necklace. Despite giving a weird look, he dug out a chhaas from a fridge and handed one over. While giving the chhas, he just told me that there’s Niro. I had no idea what that was so I asked him to get me a Niro instead.

Niro is a drink that is extracted from the branch of date palms. It tastes somewhere between tender coconut and date syrup. It’s transparent in colour and slightly viscous. There was a board besides the shop that had tall claims about Niro. It said ‘Kutch ni amrit’, talked about its high vitamin content and that it was refreshing and highly beneficial. If you ask me for an honest opinion about the Niro there, I would say it’s much more. It has body coolers, mood enhancers, magical powers and everything that teleshopping products claim about their products. Bhuj bus stop Niro, very highly recommended.

Soon, I would be off on my bus to Khavda. The bus was filled with locals in colourful clothes. Kutch is very similar to Rajasthan from the outside. Their clothes are as colourful, their landscape is very similar and even the Kutchi dialect has the same distinct sounds as Rajasthani dialects, even though very different. I again took out my camera and again endured stares. But I still went on clicking pictures. As I was clicking a child’s picture, an old man lashed out at me. The only words I could understand were ‘Bachcha’ and ‘Photo’. So I smiled like an idiot, put my camera back in my pocket, said sorry and raised my hands in defense.

Soon, all of a sudden, the bus would stop and everybody would get off the bus. It was a tea break! The 60 km ride needed a tea break at 4 pm in the afternoon. A good 15 minute break! Impressive, indeed. I was thirsty so I went to the shop there and asked them if they had bottled water. To make things a bit more clear, I asked him for Bisleri. He replied saying he had Feni. Feni? How come? Isn’t that Goan alcohol? And more importantly, isn’t Gujarat a dry state? I told him ok, to check out the Feni. He pulled out a bottle of packaged water. The label read ‘F E N N Y teasted water’. Teasted is some sort of Kutchi filtration and water treatment, I suppose.

After another half hour, I was at Khavda. Now began the main task. Getting a vehicle to Kalo Dungar. The next bus would come the next day. There were jeeps however that could take you uphill to Kalo Dungar but I needed more people. Luckily there was a family who had come from Gandhidham who were also going that way. The family comprised of a man who seemed to be in his mid thirties and his parents. So we were 4 people now. We tried to hire a jeep. But the best bargain we could get was Rs.600. Which according to me was fine. I was ready to pay Rs.150 but the family wouldn’t pay more than Rs. 50 per head. So we had to let the jeep go.

Soon, another group of people would join in. Led by a lady who looked a bit funny. It wouldn’t be right to make fun of someone’s appearance but this lady gave me an impression that God was in a funny mood when he made her. She wasn’t a dwarf but she seemed to be hammered on her head. Same with her voice box. She came in with another four people. We were 9 people now and clearly no vehicle would take us. A man who was accompanying the lady claimed to have gone to some village inside and called for a jeep which would come in half an hour. The vehicle would charge 50 per head. It was already 530 and half an hour later would mean missing out on the sunset.

Even though I agreed, I went around seeing if there was any other way to make it up fast. I walked up to a man standing near a black scorpio and asked him if he was going to Kalo Dungar. Instead of answering me he asked me how many of us were there. I replied four of us (counting the family) or just me. He said he’d charge 700 for four and 200 for one. I quickly asked the family if they were ready for that amount even though I knew they would refuse. So I had to go alone. I bargained to Rs. 150 and was on my way to Kalo Dungar. Funny lady came and started arguing but the owner of the vehicle asked the driver to go ahead.

The road from Khavda to Kalo Dungar was beautiful. It was full of twists and turns, but no hairpins or steep bends. The road was heading eastwards and uphill. There was a good half hour left for sunset, it was still bright and the moon shone bright above the hill top. It was simply stunning. Not only was it bright, it was also huge, a size you don’t generally get to see. After crossing a so called magnetic point, the driver told me there was a magnetic point where a car automatically moves downhill. How thoughtful of him to tell me after it was over.

After less than half an hour, I was on top of the hill. The view was stunning. It was surrounded by hills, shrubs, deserts and water. I had heard that the White Rann was visible from Kalo Dungar but all i could see was the usual brown desert followed by water. Moreover it was getting dark so the view was not at its clearest. A few important things about Kalo Dungar is that it’s home to a Dattathreya temple, a deity only followed by a certain section of Kutchis. I didn’t enter the temple as I was carrying dust from all over the district with me. Mandvi was the southern tip and this was nearly the northern most point. And this was hardly 50 kms from Pakistan. So there was a BSF base adjacent to the temple.

The view from the sunset point was beautiful. Once the sun started sinking and touched the horizon, it was in a hurry. It was as though it asked the diametrically opposite moon to relieve it of its duties and rushed home. The drama was accentuated by the sound of drums and bells coming from the temple. It looked like the sinking sun was moving to the pace of the drums.

So to give a better description of Kalo Dungar, the highest point is a view point. 50 m downhill is the temple. Besides the road from the view point to the temple is the BSF base. All of these things were to the western side of the hill. To the eastern side, there was a stage at the same level as the temple. Downhill, on the eastern side there are rooms, a big veranda in front of the rooms, a big hall and an open space above the hall, meant for serving food.

So once the sun set, the action shifted to the stage on the Eastern side. Behind the stage at a distance, was a round cement surface where the temple saints feed the jackals every evening after sun set. They’d kept food there for a long time but none of the jackals turned up. After a while, when it was very dark, they showed us some dark figures on that round cement surface. They said there were two jackals a few dogs and cows. And I believed them.

I would then spend a good amount of time walking around the hill. It was windy and chilly and just perfect. I enquired for a room but all the rooms were taken. They however told me that there was a hall where they would provide us with mattresses and pillows for the night. That sounded wonderful, except for the fact that they pronounced it as ‘hole’. So I had a place to sleep at night but I was sure I wouldn’t. I was all set for a nice tête-à-tête with nature.

As I was loitering around, soon the family that was there at Khavda also came. To their bad luck, the sun had already set. We would talk there for a while. They said someone they knew was driving to Kalo Dungar. So they got a lift and left the funny lady there. Dirty Picture, please! The son of the family asked me if they had missed anything and for some reason, I couldn’t resist the urge to be honest. Even though the man was 35 +, he sounded 5+ when he said that he had asked ‘Puppa’ and Mummy to leave earlier. If he had made a puppy face, I would’ve stood there fighting tears. We then parted ways. I went near the temple and they would roam around other areas of the hill.

A while later, something not so pleasant happened. I came face to face with funny lady. She started screaming at me, squeaking rather. You know those times when you’re happy you don’t know a certain language. I had that kind of a moment as the lady would go on with her Gujarati arguments. I countered that with a blank expression and an incomprehensible nod. She got frustrated and walked off in a while.

Soon, I would again meet the family at the veranda outside the rooms. They informed me that they had kept their bags inside the hall and had got mattresses for themselves. They asked me to go and place my bag next to theirs. Very nice of them, indeed! I also returned the favour by warning them about funny lady. We would soon have dinner at the open space above the hall. Once we were done with dinner, the family would retire in the hall while I sat there alone in the veranda.

It was the best time to talk to myself. Suddenly there was a power cut. I was sitting alone there on the moonlit veranda. I could hear crickets all over the hill. And in the background, old people were singing bhajans in their rooms. I was suddenly transported 20 years back in time when I had experienced the same thing while playing in the moonlight at my hometown, one vacation. Nostalgia, was the last thing I thought I would feel on the trip. But it was beautiful, nevertheless. I was thinking of spending the whole night sitting on the bench. But in one hour I was out of there. I would spend the next hour speaking to people at the canteen near the temple.

I struck a conversation with the canteen owners and the BSF jawans over there. It was really nice getting to know the brave people who make our lives secure. They were having a ball at Kalo Dungar. With the kind of postings they get, speaking to people, moderate weather conditions and talking to their loved ones over the phone was a luxury. From places where wild animals could attack them any time to places where there’s no sign of vegetation, their lives is anything but easy. They told me that the entire area came under them because of its proximity to the border and that they were on the hill while a few other of our jawans were at the border, on the Rann.

Apart from talking to the BSF jawans, I also went around enquiring about the salt desert and the white Rann. One thing you must know about Kutchis and the White Rann, The White Rann is like God. Everyone has his own definition and sometimes you would also feel no one has even seen it. While someone told me I had to go to Dhordo, someone else told me I had to go to Kandla near Gandhidham. Someone else would tell me to go to another district altogether. Anyways, I would have to look into all that the next day.

Despite my plans of staying up all night, by 1030, sleep took its toll over me. I went back to the hall and the last thing I remember was pulling up my bedsheet. I had the best sleep in a long time. The next morning when I woke up at 6, I was surprised to see that the lights were on. The surprising part is that I’m a light sleeper who can’t sleep when the lights are on. Dirty Picture, I’m serious this time!

After an hour, I was up at 7 and the sun would soon be on its way. I went to the west to see, the moon was sinking into the horizon! The sun and moon were again diametrically opposite like last night. What was even more suprising was that the moon was sinking. I would say, more like a moonset. It was even orangish in colour. Something I had never seen before. I wondered if it was a phenomenon that preceded the coming lunar eclipse that was to happen that evening.

I would spend the next half hour clicking the sunrise and saying my goodbye to all the nice people I had met there. The son of the family also came up to me at the last moment and thanked me for some reason, We’ll meet soon, he added. And that’s when we introduced ourselves. Mithilesh, he said.

Now to go downhill, I had to wait for the next vehicle which I had no idea about. So I decided to walk downhill. The journey was absolute bliss. I could see the hills better as the sun started to shine brighter. While I walked I would suddenly stop in between to experience absolute silence. And then start walking again with the sound of my bag’s clinking zipper and the sounds of my slippers. After a while, I would come across a board with a jackal that read ‘Van Vibhag’, forest department and a lot of Gujarati smeared across the board. As if that wasn’t good enough, after a while, there was another similar board. This time, the board had the picture of a cheetah. After I was 3 kms down, a scorpio would come but would refuse to give me a lift. I continued walking and there at a distance, I could see the white Rann, finally! I had looked in that direction from the top of the hill, the previous evening but it was probably too dark to spot it. I had finally seen what I came to see. And now I would see it even closer.

I still enjoyed walking downhill. Soon, vehicles would start coming uphill. And after walking down another two kms, I saw a few people walking uphill too. To reach Kalo Dungar, I might have taken a vehicle for the last 15 kms but these were people who came walking a good 90 kms from Bhuj. There were many others like them. While I stood there talking to them, a vehicle going downhill stopped and gave me a ride to Khavda. The driver was what one would call an absolute cynic. He went on ranting about Kutch and that there was nothing in Kutch. He then would talk about Modi wasting money over tourism. He later on admitted that it got jobs, but would again call it a colossal waste. “Yeh kya Amitabh Bachchan bolta hai Kutch nahi dekha to kuchch nahi dekha? Kuchch bhi nahi hai idhar” he went on. Even though he was a cynic, he was smiling throughout the ride, so I had no complaints. Except for that one time when he said its better to go to Mumbai or Delhi than come down to Kutch. Anyways, I handed him over a 50 rupee note which he downright refused. I thanked him and got down at Khavda.

From Khavda, I would now catch a bus to the checkpost. Now to go to Dhordo, you need a pass which you could get from the checkpost there. You just need your id proof and at a minimal charge, you can get your pass. But once I reached there and went to the checkpost, I was declined a pass. They were not issuing passes for the next two days because the chief minister, Narendra Modi was visiting the Rann Utsav. The last time I felt so low and dejected was at the Vasai Road station.

So I went and started talking to one of the policemen there. He told me there was nothing that could be done about the situation. Just then, the place Lakhpat came to mind. I asked him about Lakhpat and he told me that it’s much better than Dhordo. He told me there’s a fort, a gurudwara, a naval camp, Narayan Sarovar lake and a lot more over there. He told me I won’t be in the Rann of Kutch but I could see it from there and that I required no permission for it. So I just called Mr. Ayyagiri at that moment and told him the situation. He told me that Lakhpat would be a very good option. He also added that there was a Koteshwar temple close to the border which was worth seeing. So the next stop was Lakhpat

It was 1030 then. From the checkpost, Bhuj was 2 hours away and from there, Lakhpat was 3 hours away. Which meant I could reach there by around 5 or so. I caught the next bus to Bhuj and headed for a nice refreshing glass of Niro. The old man selling Niro recognised me and said ‘Niro bau special chhe!’ with a smile. I couldn’t agree more. I got a bus for Lakhpat which would leave at around 1.

I was on the bus and the conductor told me to take a ticket of ‘Nakhatrana’ instead. He told me the bus took a very long route and taking a direct bus from Nakhatrana would be a better option. So I got down at Nakhatrana which at around 230. As I asked the people there about a bus to Nakhatrana, they pointed to the bus I got down from. I told them what had happened. They said yes, it takes a longer route but it would’ve been a better option. So they adviced me to take another bus for ‘Mata na Math’ or ‘Mata ka math’ as it is called in hindi. Math is not pronounced like math in mathematics, it’s pronounced like math in no if, no bhatt, only math! And to answer your question, I am not ashamed of my sense of humour. And now that I’ve acknowledged my horrendous sense of humour here’s another one. If you call a person from Kutch, a Kutchi. What would you call a person from Lakhpat?

So in another hour I would be at Mata ka Math. One amazing thing about Mata ka Math is the beggars. They are so determined and strong willed that they will block your way and won’t take no for an answer. So dodging beggars, I would finally get a jeep to Narayan Sarovar. They told me Lakhpat was not so far from there and that there would be many options from there. So I’m off to Narayan Sarovar, which is locally called Nasarovar.

I reach there at 530 and grab a cup of tea and ask the chaiwala about the next bus to Lakhpat. I get another shock when he says there’s nothing until tomorrow morning. A jeep driver walked up to me and said the only option you have is taking a private vehicle. He would drive me to Lakhpat for Rs. 700. I found the amount too high. The jeep person added that there was no other way I could reach Lakhpat. Meanwhile he said he would take me to Koteshwar temple. Which was 2 kms from there. He said the ride would cost Rs. 60 but as there was someone already waiting to go there, he would take us both there for Rs. 30 per head and bring us back. I instantly agreed.

Narayan Sarovar is a lake situated at the western most part of the Kutch. Perhaps one of the western most parts of India. Next to it, the Koteshwar Temple is situated on the Kori Creek which, like Kalo Dungar is very close to Pakistan. The Koteshwar Temple had two Shiv Temples and like most temples in Gujarat, they had a nice ‘akshardham-like’ structure with beautiful carving. It was amazing how every region close to the border had to have a temple. It was as if the rulers back in the days had seen the film border where Suniel Shetty says ‘Gaaon barbaad kardiya par Maa ke mandir ko chhoo nahi paaye’ and said, ok, let’s make more temples.

The view at Koteshwar was beautiful. The sea had receded and all that was left for a long distance was mud. There was a sea stuck in the mud and house out of nowhere was also placed in the middle of the mud. We had only half an hour to spend in Koteshwar, which we nicely spent. The other man who accompanied me to Koteshwar meanwhile adviced me not to drive to Lakhpat for Rs. 700. He said that he would be leaving for Mata ka Math soon. I could get down at a place called Gatholi on that bus and get something for Lakhpat from there. So I was sure of what I had to do now. Go to Gatholi and then Lakhpat and catch the Lunar Eclipse from there.

As we reached Narayan Sarovar back from Koteshwar, it was 6 pm. The bus to Mata ka Math was at 630 pm. So we whiled time away and took pictures of the sunset. At the same time, the eclipse had just started. The moon looked as though a part of it was blocked by smoke. It had a very unordinary shape. In a few minutes, the shape would smoothen out and the moon would slowly start getting eclipsed. It was like a half moon and crescent moon with the rest of the moon appearing in a faint pink colour. In a while the crescent reduced to a small patch of light. It looked as though someone was flashing a torch from the other end. The moment it got completely eclipsed, it was as though the 2 dimensional moon we had been seeing all these years suddenly became 3 dimensional.

It was already 7 and the bus was yet to come. Soon the bus would come at 715 and the bus driver would run off to get some tea wasting another 15 minutes. When the bus didn’t come by 7, I had decided to spend the night at Narayan Sarovar. I didn’t see a point in going to some Ghatoli and being stuck over there at night, in case I didn’t get transport to Lakhpat. As it is, I already lost any faith whatsoever in the local transport there and people’s reassurance of getting ‘options’ from any given area. So I had decided to take the bus for Lakhpat at 530 am, the next morning.

So I booked a room at Narayan Sarovar. It costed me Rs. 200 but it was big enough to fetch Rs. 20,000 a month in Mumbai. It didn’t have a TV, else it could be compared to any room you get elsewhere for nearly Rs. 700 a night. All in all, fantastic deal. It was run by a religious trust and it would already be evident that profit is not their main goal. So once I booked my room, I sat in the open watching the lunar eclipse. While I sat there awestruck, people were going around doing their own thing as though they see a lunar eclipse every day.

The air was slowly getting chillier at night and I had a nice kadhi and khichdi for dinner and retired for the night. And once the eclipse was over, I had a shower too. Yes I am superstitious. But then, what’s the harm in being superstitious if it calls for a nice shower in warm water. I would soon doze off after the shower. I needed an early start.

The next day, I would wake up at 4 am, get ready and reach the bus stop at 515 for the Lakpat bus. And then, the biggest disappointment of the journey awaited me. The bus had left way before time. Now trying to reach Lakhpat and then reaching Bhuj would was too big a risk to take. And even though there was enough time for the train, there was no way, I could take the risk of missing another train.

I saw the sunrise there at the lake. It was beautiful with chirping birds and quacking ducks. After clicking a good sunrise, I would take the next bus to Bhuj, have another glass of Niro there, chat a while with the Kaka selling Niro, while time surfing the net and watching a movie and by the next morning, I would be in Maharashtra.

So in short I didn’t make it to the salt desert, I didn’t click pictures of colourful people there and the only hut I saw was the police check post. But then, travelling is not just about the destination, it’s about the journey. And things you say to console yourself. And I’m thankful to Kutch for giving me one of the most eventful trips till date.

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Places in Kutch

Dhordo – White Rann, the salt desert. Direct bus from Bhuj – 86 km

Hodko – A village with mud huts, place made for rural tourism. Direct bus from Bhuj, on the same route as Dhordo, 11 kms before Dhordo.

From Bhuj to Dhordo, you have to cross a check post for your pass to visit the White Rann. You get the pass on showing your id proof and paying a nominal fee. Dhordo and Hodko are to the left from the check post and if you go straight, you reach Khavda. Keep going straight, you’ll reach Kalo Dungar.

Kalo Dungar – highest point in Kutch. Close to Hodko. No direct bus from Bhuj, you have to go to Khavda first.

Mandvi – Awesome beach, highly recommended. Incredibly sweet tender coconuts.

Another stretch on the west that you could explore includes Lakhpat, Narayan Sarovar and Koteshwar temple. 3-4 hours from Bhuj.

Note: There’s public transport to anywhere but timings and availability are not reliable. It’s always better to hire your own vehicle. And whatever you do, do not leave Bhuj without having Niro at the Bus Terminal

Girnar and Junagadh

2011-02-04T11:26:00.000-08:00

I get up to the 530 alarm at my room in Sasan. I put a 530 alarm with the intention of catching the 6 am bus to Junagadh from where I would go to Girnar hills. But after the alarm, I would then continue sleeping for another hour after which I manage to be on time for a 7am bus to Jungadh. I manage a small nap between the one and a half hour ride before I reach Junagadh. There I get off the bus and catch a share auto to Girnar hills for a fare of Rs. 10.

The auto leaves me at the foot of the hills. As I make my way to the hills, there are shops on both ends which sell tapes, cds, pictures of deities and other things that you would find in shops near temples. Apart from that, they were also renting lathis or sticks which one could use to climb the hill. Even though no one as young as me was holding one, I thought I’d go for one. I thought I would need one in due course of time as I had a slightly heavy bag to carry too. The stick costed me Rs. 20 out of which Rs. 10 was refundable once i returned the stick.

As I enter the hill, it’s a series of steps in front of me. I thought the steps would be for some distance after which the real hill would start. But later on it turned out to be steps all the way to the top. So I went sprinting up the huge steps with all my might. After around 500 steps, I took my first break, had a lemonade and then moved up. After I reached 800 steps, it was time for the next break.

One good thing about the hill is that after every few steps, there’s a lemonade/cold drink/mineral water shops. The bad thing however is that they sell Bistar and Blisteri brands of mineral water. I get a cold drink at my 800 step break and ask the lady at the shop how many steps were left. She asked me where I wanted to go and I replied that i had no clue, which really was the fact. So she enlightened me that there was a jain temple after 4500 steps, an Ambadevi temple at 5000 steps and at the top, a Shiv temple which was a whopping 9990 steps!

800 steps and I already was exhausted. I thought of calling off the plan. I thought I’d return down and go back to Ahmedabad or plan anything else to do. But something made me go for at least the Jain temple. Let’s say shame. Later I decided to move slower and take fewer breaks in between. But as per my plan, I moved slower but against the plan, I again took a lot of breaks in between. After around 2500 steps, I take a long break and nearly doze off when a man comes and wakes me up for no reason. He said chalo so I thought I’d get started again.

As we climbed the stairs he asked me where I’d come from. On saying Ahmedabad, he replied saying Nagpur, Maharashtra as though I couldn’t even take my wildest guess at where Nagpur was. He asked me where I was headed. I said, I guess the Jain temple. He said ‘Now that we’ve come here, we must go all the way to the top’. ‘We’ll do it together’. So We continued climbing the stairs.

After a few steps, an old white couple was climbing down. He stops them and asks ‘aapke desh me aisa hai?’. No points to guess who had to translate it. They replied no, they had the Eiffel tower but it couldn’t be compared to this. ‘Vous avez francaise?’ I said to which they were really happy. They said they hardly got to hear any French in India to which I replied Nous ne parlons pas francaise a l’inde, we don’t speak French in India. Mr. Nagpur interrupted by saying there’s some temple in Maharashtra. Now I had no idea how I would translate that. So I explain that he’s come from Maharashtra, a state south to this state of Gujarat and he’s saying about so and so temple which he says is a must visit. Just as i completed the translation, I could see Mr. Nagpur gathering his thoughts and itching to ask his next question. I hurriedly look at the couple and say ok then... bye, au revoir. The reply au revoir with a smile and I get moving along with the Nagpur baggage.

A few steps later, I take a picture of the cliff. Just as i do that, Mr. Nagpur says ‘arre unka photo lene ka tha’ you should’ve taken their snap. I said there was no necessity for it. So he called out to the couple who were a few hundred steps below ours. ‘Hello Sir’ he called out. I didn’t even look at his face and went sprinting. I have no idea how but the next 1500 steps was a piece of cake. I only stopped on seeing an entrance which looked like the entrance of an ancient house. As we move through the door, we reach a couple of Jain temples. The temples display striking architecture and intrinsic carvings which are a delight to the eyes. Moreover, they’re very peaceful inside; something I’ve always liked about Jain temples. So after a short visit to the Jain temples, I decide to go downhill. Let’s just say I got over the shame.

While moving down, the energy level was not much of a problem as it was to control the speed of descending. There was this urge to keep jumping the steps and roll down all the way to the end. But there was something strange about my knees trembling during the descend. I don’t know if anyone else felt it. So I had to take a few breaks in between. I had planned at doing it with just one break. But I had to take 2-3 more. There was something about the starting 1000 or so stairs. They’re the hardest to climb up or down. Don’t ask me the logic. By the way, I met Mr. Nagpur while descending. He was still going up. He luckily caught someone else to bore.

Once I finished the trek, It was 1 pm. So I take an auto back to the Junagadh railway station. I decide to take the next train/bus to Ahmedabad. I had a ticket for 915 pm but decided to cancel that and go for the next train/bus instead. On my way to the railway station, towards the end, I ask the autowallah about places to visit in Junagadh. He took out a card with some 7 places of interest in it. He said he would show me around the places in 3 hours if I didn’t have to catch a bus or train immediately. So I agreed and decided to take my 915 train.

Just opposite the railway station, is a monument known as the Sardar Patel Gate. The gate with a clock on it looks like the entry into a fort. As we move into the area, he shows me a monument to my side. He said it wasn’t on the itinerary but it’s a beautiful monument. I couldn’t disagree on the fact that it was beautiful. But I couldn’t believe how it couldn’t be on the itinerary. The Mahabat Makbara looked like a decolourised Constantinople.

The Makbara of the sixth Nawab of Junagadh, Mahabat was a specimen of medieval Islamic architecture in India. Besides the Nawab’s Makbara was another equally beautiful Makbara of his Prime Minister or Vazir Bahauddin. The minarets to the Makbara were straight out of a fairy tale. It was as if Rapunzel would out of the blue, let her hair down from one of those things.

I would next be taken to the Sakkarbaug Zoo. As I had just visited the Gir Sanctuary the previous day and I knew I couldn’t expect anything more from the Junagadh zoo as compared to the Delhi Zoo, I just click the picture from outside. The next was a Narsinh Mehtaji ni Choro. I have no idea what that is. The autowallah told me about it but even that didn’t seem to help. Because I thought it was a temple dedicated to the Narsimha avatar of Lord Vishnu. But the idols inside turned to be of some other deity. Nonetheless, I move on with the itinerary.

The next site would be Uparkot Fort. I had to hire a guide for Rs. 100 which is compulsory at the fort. The guide tells me the for was built over 8000 years ago by Maharaja Ugrasen, the maternal grandfather of Lord Krishna. After a grand archway through which we enter the fort, the guide shows me around the place. He shows me a wall besides me with no signs of plastering or joining or bricks or rocks of any kind. He said the entire fort was carved off a hill! Surprisingly the reason to believe him was right in front of us, though a lot more of reasons and evidence was destroyed by the Nawabs who would rule Junagadh and destroy the fort around the 15th-16^th century.

The fort covered a distance of 6 kms inside, out of which the guide would show me some 6 places of interest. The first was a pathhar ki khai, a big hole dug in stone. Apparently, those stones were used to build the surrounding fence of the fort. The hole was then filled with water and dangerous animals were reared in them for protection of the fort from any attacker.

The next things shown were two cannons. They were brought from Iran by the Nawabs of Junagadh. The larger one had the Nawab of Ahmedabad, Ahmed Shah engraved on it. The next thing to be shown was the Queen’s palace during Maharaja Ugrasen’s reign, which was later converted to Jumma Masjid. The guide told me that a few pillars inside the palace, which served as a temple mandap were broken and placed on top of the palace to give it the appearance of mosque with minarets. The palace also had a couple of tunnels that led to places 5, 10 and 20 kms away, the 10 km away one being the Jain temple I had earlier visited atop the Girnar hills. One interesting trivia that the guide told me is that from the palace, the Girnar hills resembles the face of a sleeping man. I’ve tilted the picture of the hill so that you could see a man’s face on the hill.

The next to be shown were Buddhist caves. During the Ashokan reign, he built caves in his kingdom all over the country, where people could meditate. The well lit cave was supposed to be very peaceful but thanks to a bunch of school kids who came out of nowhere, there was none of it. They were getting their pictures clicked instead of the caves.

Next was the Adi Kav Well. The 162 stepped well was completely carved out of rock. 81 m long and 41 m deep. The sides of the wall resembled the grand canyon. Many of the withered rocks have now been replaced by new stones. Especially on the staircase. But it makes for a beautiful view. The well had pure drinking water at one point of time. Now, all it had were bottles, plastic bags and pigeon droppings. The 162 step climb took a toll on my already tired legs and I now quickly waited for the fort to finish and soon, it did.

Next, I was shown the Swami Narayan temple, a Gayatri temple and a Damodar Kund, three popular temples in the area. Another important sight shown was an Ashokan Edicts. The boulder kept during the Ashokan era had engraved messages of various teaching of Buddhism. But unfortunately they were in the ‘Brahmi’ script which is not known today. It is believed to be written in the Ujjaini.

After having seen all the ‘places of interest’ in Junagadh, I spend another 3 hours at a cyber cafe to while time while waiting for my 915 train. Anyone who knows me would know that 3 hours on the internet is not much of a task for me. But anyways, I was in no condition to walk or move anywhere. So I get the train right on time and sleep in no time. Thanks to the 4500 steps!

Gir Wildlife Sanctuary

2011-02-04T10:34:00.000-08:00

My last week in Gujarat, I plan to set out to the famous Gir Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary, 395 kms from Ahmedabad is the only existing habitat of the Asiatic Lions. On Tuesday night, I catch the 2200 hrs Somnath Express to Junagadh, the nearest railway station. From the station, I would then have to catch a bus. As I reach Junagadh at 5 am, I’m told there’s a train for Sasan Gir at 745. I thought I would take a bus instead, as that would reach pretty late. I’d read that tourists who reach early had a better chance at catching a glimpse of the lion. So I take an auto to the bus terminal. The autowallah tells me that its better to wait at the beginning of the Sasan road, A road that leads to Sasan Gir, as the sanctuary is known better. That ways, I could hop on to any bus going in that direction.

So at 530, I’m standing near a roundabout from where buses turn towards the sanctuary. After a half hour wait, I get on to a bus, catch an hour long nap before I finally reach my destination at twilight. As you enter Sasan Gir, you have to first go to the government’s registration desk where you can hire a jeep to go into the sanctuary. I reach there at 7:07 and I’m late by a few minutes for registration. Now the charges for every group that enters the forest are, Rs. 400 for permission, Rs. 100 for a guide, which is compulsory and Rs. 800 for a jeep. Each Jeep carries up to 6 people. The groups that registered there at 7:00 am were already in multiples of 6. So I had to wait for the next round of registration. With another half hour in my hand before the next registration, I decide to go out and have a tea.

As I have tea, I break into a conversation with the chaiwala, Arif. He tells me that apart from the sanctuary, there’s a small caged area called Devaliya where I could spot a lion for sure. It would be an hour long ride for Rs. 75. Well, fortunately or unfortunately, that day being a Wednesday, it was closed. Apart from the lion reserve, he told me about Jamjir waterfalls at a distance of nearly 50 kms and a village named Jambur with African settlements. He said he would hire an auto to take me to both places for Rs. 700. He gave me his number so I could contact him for any help in going around the place.

As the clock strikes 8, I again head for the registration centre. As I enter, there’s a family of four ready for registration, an elderly couple with a son and daughter. The son who was in charge was nearly my age. So the guides approach him asking them if they could take me along with them as the capacity is 6 and one more person would mean splitting the charge. The son however was snobbish and was giving me and them a cold shoulder. One of the guides calls me to the side and says, it’s better not to go with them. They’ll be a headache.

As he tells me that, two other guides run behind the office. The guide who was talking to me also runs behind them and calls me along. I had no clue so I ran along. The guide later on tells me that they heard a deer’s ‘danger call’. That meant I could probably see a lion before the Safari itself. We run through the backyard of the office, cross a railway track and enter the forest. A forest guard says there was a leopard. But to our dismay, we couldn’t see anything. I felt they might have done it to distract me, but it was fun nonetheless. As we walk back, they show me a brown woodpecker which was hard to spot as it camouflaged itself on the tree trunk. One of the guides had its voice recorded in his mobile phone and tried to call it but nothing worked. But in the stroll, we managed to catch a glimpse of the black naped Indian hare which ran away from us.

The guides are quite a smart lot. Not only do they know a good deal about the forest and all animal names in English, but they also know how to do business. As we walk back towards the registration desk, one guide again tells me about the Jamjir falls and Jambur village. So I find this the best chance to get a bargain. I tell him about Arif, the chaiwala and that he agreed to take me around for Rs. 700. And as expected, he told me he would get me a better deal. He also told me that now that the 8:00 batch was over, I would probably have to go in the 3 PM batch. So I could meanwhile visit the nearby places. On requesting for an earlier ride, he said he would arrange it earlier if possible.

So as we enter the registration office again, there’s a family of three, 2 parents and a school-going girl who were done with their registration. The guides requested them to take me along and the agreed. So I gave them my share of Rs. 1300 which turned out to be Rs. 325 and got on to a jeep. The guide sees a camera in my hands and says, oh this would be another 100 Rs. To which the other guides tell him to ‘manage’. He obliges.

It is said that during the reign of the Nawabs, lions were constantly hunted in the forest. Later on, Lord Curzon requested the Nawab to ban hunting. The Nawab who obliged, later on marked the area as a wildlife sanctuary. Back in the day, the lions were counted and census back then said they were less than 20 in number. Today, there are over 411 of them.

Our jeep enters the sanctuary at 9:00. The park is 1412 sq km of deciduous forest interspersed with semi-evergreen and evergreen flora, acacia, scrub jungle, grasslands and rocky hills. There are 8 tracks that are 40 kms long that run through the forest. Apart from lions, that are the main attraction, the forest is also a natural habitat for leopards, hynas, jackals, langurs, porcupines, Indian hares, Sambhar deers, spotted deers and the Nilgai among many others.

As the jeep enters the sanctuary, we’re welcomed by langurs and peacocks. But having seen them so often in Ahmedabad, they had started to appear normal to me. Nonetheless, it was nice to see them in their natural habitat. A few minutes later, there was a group of spotted deers. As we think of clicking them, a jeep coming our way tells our driver to hurry. The guide tells us that we’ll find deers again. We have to hurry now. In a couple of minutes, there’re a couple of forest guards sitting at a point with stick in their hands. The show us 5 lions! Luck struck early! They were all feasting. The guide at first said it was a buffalo, but after a closer look he said it was a Sambhar deer. Well, if it was one, that was the only one I saw in the entire safari.

It was a great sight to see the 5 lions, 2 males and 3 females sitting royally and feasting on their prey. The guide told us the two lions were brothers. It is observed that two Lions can not be together unless they are brothers. They would fight or go separate ways. Our Jeep slowed down and took us closer to the wild cats. We were told not to make much noise. The lions would’ve seen us coming but they were least bothered. A forest guard also came walking along with the jeep to give us a closer look. Once we all had seen the lions and clicked our share of pictures, we then moved on the trail. We were allotted trail number 7.

The forest was rather dry and according to the guide, remained so throughout the year, except for monsoons. And during the season that lasts from June to October, the sanctuary is closed. So in case you want to visit, the best time is between December to May. The guide told us that later on, in summer the forest would go even dryer. On the ride ahead, we would spot loads of spotting deers. As we move ahead, we later on stop on a small bridge over a stream. From the stream, we would be shown the Indian Robin and the white-chested Indian woodpecker. A few snaps later we would keep going till we catch a sight or crystal clear blue water surrounded by beautiful hills.

We had reached the Kamleshwar Dam. It was a rather large waterbody where Indian Crocodiles, Muggers and many species of birds could be found. As we enter the lake, we catch a glimpse of a family of deers drinking water from the waterbody, which made for a beautiful sight. The jeep then goes till the other end of the waterbody where a watch tower is located. From there, one can have an overview of the entire sanctuary. There was a village we could spot from there. There are some maldhari tribes who live inside the sanctuary. They make a living by tending to their cattle which graze at the forest.

The Kamleshwar Dam was a beautiful sight with misty mountains as a backdrop. The crystal clear water could not be accessed by people and it was quite evident. We caught glimpse of crocodiles (just their eyes and a part of their snout sticking out of water) swimming and birds like the Indian snake bird which is called so, as it has a long neck.

After the hault, our jeep heads back. The jeep enters and exits from different points. So now we head towards the exit. And on our way back, we spot a few more spotted deers. The males have distinct long branched antelopes. One of them had a branch stuck to his head and was struggling to get rid of it. Well, soon we would be on our way out. The four hour ride was a nice rendezvous with the wild. Though we didn’t see many animals apart form the lion and spotted deers, it was a great time. Having spotted 5 lions was still a great feeling. In addition, our forest guide was nice enough to pass on video clips of lions in the recent pass over bluetooth to us.

Once out of the sanctuary, it is now time to head for the Jamjira falls. A forest guide gets me an auto, or rather a 6 seater to take me to the falls. He said that en route, the autowallah would be taking other passengers. I felt it was fine. In fact it helped get rid of the monotony of the bumpy ride. The auto rode through the beautiful Gujarati countryside which was a good mix of dry deciduous forests and green fields. As we moved on, there were quite a lot of negroes along with the local brown fellows. The blacks dressed, talked and behaved just like us.

It was nice to see another race as locals. It’s a rare sight in India. As we move ahead, I would then break into a conversation with a fellow passenger who hails from Rajkot. He was working there at a village 30 kms from Sasan (the area of the sanctuary) at a construction site. As we talked about lions, he took out a picture of him standing besides a lion. He said that the lion had reached the village in search of easy prey and was no harm to humans. He said that if you bother it, it first warns by roaring. If you still don’t listen, you wouldn’t have to listen... to anything, every. One more thing he advised is, not to run away on seeing a lion. If you behave normal, it would remain put. Even though we managed a conversation, there was something strange about the hindi of people in Junagadh district. After a few words, it was hard to follow.

The auto later enters a village named Jamvada. By then all the passengers who had got in mid-way had alighted. The village was a very bumpy ride. On entering the village, the autowallah goes asking directions. He takes me to a dead end where it was there was a dried river. Women were washing clothes in some remaining puddles and there were buffaloes walking over the rocks which were supposed to be a riverbed. I was wondering where a waterfall could come out of the dried rivers. The autowallah then tells me that it was his first time too. I did not know how to react to that. After a 2 hour bumpy ride, he tells me he’s not sure. Anyways, I had no time boundations and nothing to lose. So I go walking along with him in the deserted area. We then move along and finally, a couple of narrow streams merge and fall off the cliff. It was like a waterfall out of nowhere! It was a nice sight in the quaint village. At a distance, there were buffaloes, sheep and goats grazing on whatever the could find.

The waterfalls were barely 30-40 feet high. Just before a stream fell off the cliff, it created a depression which made it like a small bath tub. I leave all my belongings near a rock and go take a leisurely dip in the stream. I had an urge to jump down the falls but then I wasn’t sure of how I’d get back. My inability to swim only made me stick to a dip in the stream. It was a great relief in the heat of the noon. Luckily it was just February. Otherwise the sun would be hotter and the water would’ve dried up.

Once that was done, we headed back to Sasan. The autowallah had told me he would take me to Zambur, the village where negroes had settled down, at the beginning of the ride. So as we ride, suddenly the auto goes inside a lane and stops in front of a dargah. He points to two middle aged black men and says ‘photo kheench lo’, take their pictures. It was an embarrassing moment. So I thought of taking pictures with them, as though I had never seen black people in my life.

I then break into a conversation with one of them. He works as a tourist guide at Sasan and he spoke in very bad Indian-guide English. Even though my questions were in Hindi he replied ‘ We is a Nigeria is a Nawab is a Junagadh is a hardware is a Hyderabad is a Tanzania. We is a tribal dance is a perfrom is a Hotel is a Ahmedabad is a Diu is a ...” Several failed attempts to strike a conversation in Hindi went in vain. They probably only knew Gujarati. So as we leave, I smile and say bye. He smiles back with a smirk, a verbal translation of which, would be “I’m not a show piece, you @#@% tourist”

Now we ride back to Sasan. Soon luck would strike again! I happen to catch a jackal crossing the road. Though I couldn’t manage to catch a snap, I had a good glimpse of it. In half an hour, we’re at Sasan After a hard time with the 4 hour jeep safari and 4 hour boneshaker auto ride, I decide to retire for the day. But just before that I squeeze in a visit to the crocodile farm. It’s a small caged area where crocodiles are reared before they’re left in to the Kamleshwar Dam. There were a couple of small Indian Crocodiles, less than 1 m in length, lazing and lying over one another. I click their pics and head for a guest house where I get a rather decent room for Rs.300 which seemed to be pretty reasonable. Maybe it was easily available as it was a working day and not peak season. I would then take rest for the next few hours.

At around 8, I go for dinner. Though being warned about the pathetic food at Gir, I have a gujarati dal with rice and a ‘tamatar sev’ curry, a local kathiavadi dish made out of tomatoes and namkeen. It was so spicy and oily that it served as a pickle. Once done with dinner, I hit the bed at 830. The next day I had to catch a 6 am bus and climb one of the highest hills in Gujarat.

Dwarka Somnath

2010-11-08T09:54:00.001-08:00

After a long time, I finally get to set out on a trip. This time Diwali, a Friday blessed us with a three day weekend. So to make the most of it and to start seeing Gujarat, I felt the weekend ideal to visit Dwarka and Somnath, two highly regarded religious places in the state. The time coinciding with a festival helped me finalise my plan. I hadn’t visited a single temple in the 4 months I was in Gujarat. But now, over the next three days, that would change. That too drastically.

So on Thursday 4^th November, the night preceding Diwali, I leave Ahmedabad by a 1030 pm sleeper bus. After a good night’s sleep, I get up around 6 and I can see boards reading Dwarka. So we were already in the town. Now we were just about to reach the bus terminal when suddenly the bus came to a hault with a loud noise. I’m not sure if it was a tyre that burst or something else that happened to the bus. But now that I was in town, I just took my bag and set out leaving the bus where it was.

As I kept walking and asking the way to the temple or some guest house, a rickshaw came and stopped in front of me. It took me to a guest house for Rs. 10. And after that, the rest of the trip was planned by the people at the hotel. They arranged a bus for Bet Dwarka, an island off Dwarka which also has an ancient temple. They were to arrange a bus to Somnath that very night. As they could not that very night, they booked my ticket for a bus leaving the next morning at 730.

So I go to my hotel room and come down after freshening up and voila! An autorickshaw is waiting right there for me to show me around Dwarka. So he takes me on a quick trip around all the places in Dwarka. Now Dwarka is divided into

three places, Gokul Dwarka, which is the main Dwarka with the Dwarkadheesh Temple, Bet Dwarka, an island off Dwarka and Mool Dwarka, which would come later on in the trip.

So the Rickshaw shows me around Dwarka. The first temple to be shown was the Gita Mandir. Quite a familiar name in the cities I’ve been to offlate. I’ve seen movie theatres and bus stops with the same name. But here Gita Mandir as per the name was a temple. The temple had an idol of the famous Gita updesh scene of Krishna and Arjuna.

The walls of the temple had the Gita written on it.

The autorickshaw guy then takes me besides the Sunset point, a place I wouldn’t be at, at the right time. Just besides the sunset point was one of the most beautiful temples, the Bhatkeshwar temple. From a distance, I could see a structure sticking out of the water. When I went close, I could see there was a way to the temple which was submerged in the sea just up to ankle height. So I take off my shoes and walk towards the temple. The view of the temple and from it was beautiful; lot of crabs and the sea.

One interesting fact that the localites told me about the temple was that on Mahashivratri, the sea would recede behind the temple and the path to the temple would be absolutely dry.

From there, I was taken to a Gayatri Mahapeeth temple and a Shri Siddheshwar Mahadev Temple. Well, there’s nothing i remember about the temples. Not even the names; I had to go through the pictures to get the names. Well apart from the two temples, I might have been shown more temples but nothing spectacular about them.

Then finally the autorickshaw fellow left me at Dwarkadheesh, the main temple. Now coming to the main story, Dwarka is one of the four pavitra dhaams according to Hinduism. One of the four main temples, a hindu should visit before he dies. Legend has it that after Lord Krishna relinquished his kingdom at Mathura, he came and settled in Dwarka. As he would leave Dwarka later on, the kingdom would collapse into the sea. As per the legend, the present day Dwarka is only one sixth of the original Dwarka. Thank God! I would explain why shortly.

So I enter the Dwarkadheesh, a beautiful structure with intricate carvings. I just about managed to enter during the Aarti time, the time when some offerings are offered to God. Excuse both, my translation and knowledge of religion.

So the Aarti goes on with heavy drum beats. The beats reminded me of Navratris at Ahmedabad. Nonetheless, it was a great spectacle to see a large gathering of people bound by faith. I had no idea what to do so I went in a line that was approaching the idol. As i approached the idol, the beats got louder and louder and faster too. It reached its peak when i was right in front of the idol. And as i stepped aside, 5 seconds later, the drum beats ended. Wow! My timing had to be perfect.

I do not remember what the idols looked like or which all idols were there. Obviously, there had to be Krishna. But it was a great feeling, nonetheless, one that I do remember. So once the temple was over, I had a walk besides the Gomti Ghat. The Gomti River meets the sea behind the temple. The Ghat is situated at the confluence. So after a trip down the Ghat, I would head for lunch and then to the hotel for an hour long nap. After which, I had to leave for Bet Dwarka.

The conjusted mini bus left for Bet Dwarka right on time. There was a panditji, a saint as a tour guide. Untill the bus started he was talking like a conductor and once the bus started, he transformed to a pen salesman in a DTC bus. Well, if you don’t know what I mean, Sorry, I can’t

put it in any better way. So he went on talking about Dwarka or Duvaarika as he pronounced it.

The first story was about Lord Krishna and wife Rukmini. Apparently, Rukmini and Krishna were on some mission and Rukmini was thirsty. So she broke some rule and was cursed to have to live away from Lord Krishna for some 12 years. The next temple was a Rukmini temple which had some connect to the above-mentioned story. The temple was beautiful with pigeons seated allover the outside structure. There was some repulsive bhashan/speech going on by some priest so I just clicked pictures from outside and moved on to the next temple.

The pandit conductor then started talking about Lord Shiva. He would next be taking us to the 8^th Jyotirlinga out of 12. A Jyotirlinga is apparently a special Shiva temple. It is believed that a person can see a Jyotirlinga as a column of fire piercing through the earth after he reaches a higher level of spiritual attainment. The 8th Jyotirlinga, Nageshwar is said to be located in three different locations, one in Maharashtra, one in Uttarakhand and this one in Gujarat. This was built by Gulshan Kumar (of T series fame). He donated Rs. 6 crores to build the temple and a huge Idol of Lord Shiva. Now despite the man’s sincere efforts, the temple still looks very T-Series. If you again don’t know what I mean, I’m again sorry, I couldn’t put it any better.

Now Bet Dwarka was left for the day. Mr. Pandit conductor again started talking like a parrot. He went on to say how Dwarka is one of the Pavitra Dhaams and how feeding a Brahmin at Dwarka Bet would help one’s ancestors attain Moksha, salvation. He also told me that him included, other Brahmins in the town only lived on the donations. According to him, 90 percent of the population in Bet Dwarka are muslims. Whatever the case, none of his arguments made sense to me. As the rest in the bus were offering him money, I just turned the other way.

From a port, a boat would take us to Bet Dwarka. The island has another Shrine dedicated to Lord Krishna which is of utmost importance to Hinduism. The view of the temple and from the temple were beautiful. We were riding back from the temple during sunset. Phew! Exhausted from visiting all the temples, I was now thinking against going to Somnath and just visiting Diu and coming back home.

Somehow, I thought I would endure a few more temples. So I book my ticket to Somnath for the next morning. After dinner, I would spend some time at the sunset point for nearly 15 minutes, have a look at the Bhatkeshwar temple(the one across the sea) and retire for the day. I slept early as I had to get up early and leave for Somnath by 730 am.

Day 2

I get up at 7 and board the bus at 730. It leaves for Somnath right on time. On my way, I take out the novel I’d been reading “The immortals of Meluha”, a story which claims Lord Shiva was a man of bone and flesh like me and you. I’m assuming ghosts and gods do no read blogs. Quite an apt book considering the fact that I would be visiting one of the most important Shiva shrines in the country. And just as I think Dwarka is over, the bus stops and we’re told that we’re at Mool Dwarka.

Legend has it that as Arjuna was getting arrogant over his knowledge and power, Krishna wanted to teach him a lesson. So he sent him with his 16 thousand god-know-how-many Gopis to a pond. He was to protect them as they bathed. Lord Krishna then sent some robbers to steal their clothes and teach Arjuna a lesson. Arjuna falls helpless as the robbers run away with the clothes. The Gopis then drown out of embarrassment. But why on earth would Lord Krishna kill all the Gopis to teach Arjuna a lesson? Well, even I don’t know. It is however said that the Gopis were all given Moksha for free. My apologies for the blasphemy

The pond is said to be behind the temple. Anyways, the temple has a nice ancient look to it. With banyan trees around, and a whitish mossish colour, it has a nice mystique look to it. From there, we would then leave to Somnath finally. We finally reach Somnath at around 2, after lunch on the way.

As I get off the bus at Somnath, there is a row of Autorickshaws waiting to take us around the city. So I get on to one to see Somnath. The first place I’m taken is Triveni. It’s the confluence of three rivers, Hiran Kapila and the mythical Saraswati. It was a beautiful sight with sparkling blue water. If I weren’t told it’s a confluence, I would’ve mistaken it for the sea.

From there, I was next taken to Gita Mandir. Yes Another Gita Mandir. Well, whoever built the temples in Somnath was empathetic with someone who had been running around visiting different temples. Because in one compound, there were 3-4 temples, hence saving time. So apart form the Gita Mandir, was a Narayan Mandir and a Shri Krishna Samadhi. Somnath happens to be the place where Lord Krishna was killed. That is believed to have happened at Bhalka Teerth, which would come later.

Next was a Krishna temple. It is believed that the Pandavas lived in a cave adjacent to the temple for one year. The entrance to the cave was so narrow, I really doubt someone of Bhima’s built (according to the epic) could even enter. And going with the earlier stated Somnath Temple tradition, this temple also had a Sun temple within the same compound. I found it interesting because I’d never been to a Sun Temple before. It wasn’t any different. Just that apart from a usual idol, there also was one of the Sun God with rays and a moustache.

The auto guy then took me to some place where he said there was some Ganga something. The only thing I saw there were kids selling pearls for Rs. 5. I don’t know if they were real but Rs. 5 was still worth a duplicate one. So I bought a few and move on. I don't know if I missed something holy and important.

Next was Bhalka Teerth. Here it’s believed that Lord Krishna was relaxing with one foot over the other. His feet looked like an animal to a hunter who shot an arrow, thus resulting in Lord Krishna’s death. This temple is 5 kms from Somnath, half way between Somnath and the nearest tow, Veraval.

At last, I would now finally visit Somnath. The temple is the first Jyotirlinga which makes it a Lord Shiva Shrine of prime importance. The temple has a cloak room where you can deposit your baggage, mobiles, camera and then move in. The temple is simply majestic. As one enters the temple, the large pillars in rows leading to the idol are very inviting.

The temple is believed to have been brought down six times by various invaders. It is however the strength of faith that has brought it up from its ruins, every time mightier than the previous. The majestic monument which is a symbol of mythology and history, has a very calming aura to it. Apart from the main idol, the temple has a series of statues depicting various Jyotirlingas and various forms of Lord Shiva. At 730 and 830, they have a light and sound show depicting the forms and Jyotirlingas, which I would miss.

In addition, on the temple boundary, is placed a globe with a trishul passing through it. It is said that if you travel southwards along that line, you would reach Antartica without being interrupted by any land midway.

After spending some time at the temple, I just stepped out to a very crowded beach besides the temple. It was even more crowded than the Mumbai chowpatty. With chat and camelrides and horserides, it was like one large fun fair. The sun was slowly and steadily setting into the sea. As I enjoyed the view, I had to plan ahead. I had to go to Diu the next day. Now I had to plan whether I would leave the same night or wait till the next morning.

Now, the only factor to decide would be a room to stay. And in all likelihood, Diu would be costlier and Somnath would not be any cheaper as well. So I now move to Veraval. I had heard of some brilliant sea food at the Veraval beach. So I take an autorickshaw to Veraval beach. During the journey, I started talking to the Autowalah about getting a room. He told me “Mai aapko Ram Bharose chhodunga. Sasta room miljaega” . Surprisingly Ram Bharose was the places name. A shady room besides the railway station for a decent rate. The funniest part however was that the lodge owner was bargaining for me to leave earlier rather than pay more money. We finally agreed at 830 am as check out time.

Once I kept my bag at the hotel, I leave for some delectable sea food at the Veraval beach. I was up for the biggest disappointment of the trip. The Veraval beach has to be the worst beach I’ve ever seen in my life. If I had to look towards the land from the sea, it would rather look like a construction site. It was neither a sandy beach nor a rocky one. To top it, no waves or breeze. And the bigger disappointment, no fish whatsoever. So I then ask and go to what would be one of the best restaurants there for seafood. Another disappointment. The worst prawns biriyani ever.

But the Ram Bharose disappointments don’t end there. I was interrupted twice in my sleep. At around 12, someone just came walking in to my room. That’s when i realised the latch i had used was not working. The next was at 530 when I just got up from my sleep for a moment. I looked at the window which led to a corridor. A man was standing there and telling me to get up. I looked at him totally confused. He would just go on in Gujarati. Later on when I told him for the umpteenth time that I don’t understand his language, he finally asked me if i was working at the hotel. When i said no, he apologised and left.

Anyways, I was out of Somnath at 10, after a traditional Gujarati breakfast of Kathia Jalebi and something that looks and tastes like a dough of wheat flour. Sorry, but that’s one more thing I don’t know. After all the temples and chaos, I finally come back to Ahmedabad after a hault of a few hours in Diu where I just relax by the sea side munching on to some delectable sea food (finally).

Well, I guess it’s now time to conclude the post. Somnath – brilliant place, beautiful sunrise and nice temples. Dwarka – advicable only for hard core religion buffs. Atheists and Agnostics would have a tough time if they decide to see all temples. High points of Dwarka however are the Bhatkeshwar and Dwarkadheesh temples.

P.S. I would’ve still missed to mention many temples and my apologies if any part of the post seemed insensitive.

Mammalapuram

2009-11-28T04:02:00.000-08:00

Welcome to a different post on this blog. Well, generally I write my posts after my first time visits to places. And that exactly is what makes this post different. This probably is my last trip here during a phase of my life known as Chennai.

To begin from the scratch, Mamallapuram is a small town located nearly 60 km from Chennai. Previously known as Mahabalipuram and referred to as "Mahabs" by the "fashionable junta" of Chennai, this place has loads to offer, from 6th century architectural marvels to continental grilled lobsters. A popular destination amogst foreign tourists and a top pick on lonely planet, this place was a lifelie during my tenure in a lifeless city called Chennai.

Be it the first time when the sea facing shacks with amazing sea food and beer turned out to be a great discovery or the late saturday escapes after work to get a life, this place always lures me with an everlasting freshness. It's rightly referred to as an 'Easily accessible Goa for Chenaiites'

The things to do here range from sightseeig loads of ancient tamil architecture to having a relaxed beer with sea food on the shacks. But that's just the tip of the iceberg. In the surroudig areas, you have a boat club, a crocodile bank and options for go karting too. The better things I've done however would include going all around the city on a cycle at a rate of just Rs.10/ hour and going into the sea to see the sunset from water for a change. The best however was drowning myself in the unpredictable waves.

My love for the place seems so firm that even the sight of death in the brackish waters couldn't alter it. And that exactly is why I'm sitting here facing the sea writing this at Mamallapuram, despite being sleep deprived for more than 2 days. So that I get a chance to say a final bye to this place that turned out to be much more than just a place, a confidante.

I'd just like to sign off by saying thanks for making the "Chennai phase" of my life worthwhile. Will definitely come back for more.

Ooty

2009-10-21T08:41:00.000-07:00

Well, after spending nearly 2 years in Tamil Nadu, I finally make it to one of the most sought after tourist destinations in the state, or in the country, for that matter. The plan was rolled out by my brother, Nitin's in-laws. Staying in Coimbatore and having their daughter come over for Diwali, Ooty seemed to be a great option for the festival. And I didn't mind butting in.

So on 16th October friday, I catch the night bus to Coimbatore to Nitin's in-laws place. I reach there at 8 in the morning. After cathcing up on some sleep and some amazing home made breakfast, we all hit the road at 11 am. Well, the 'WE' includes Nitin, his wife, her parents and her brother, Unni. And yes, me too.

Ooty to Coimbatore is nearly 100 kms. Well, officially, it's 98 but then we had a few extra kms to catch up. After a couple of kms, a mountain appears, which would later on lead us to our destination. As we start ascending the mountain, we are welcomed by monkeys. Passing through several hairpin bends, we make our way up. As we start going up in altitude, the air gets slightly chilly and ears start popping on and off. The Nilgiris is simply beautiful with trees, tea plantations and picturesque mountains enveloped in fog.

After a 2 hour ride uphill, we reach the town of Ooty. The crowded town made me feel like I had gone there to meet some relative. It was way more populated than anyone would expect a holiday destination to be. It looked like people who came to see the place over years, loved it so much that they decided to stay back.

So we first head to our hotel room on Wenlock Road, next to Cafe Coffee Day. We keep our luggage, relax, have lunch at a nearby restaurant known as quality restaurant. It was a nice buffet for a bit over hundred rupees. After that we head to our first destination in Ooty, the Boatclub. Built over the picturesque Ooty lake, surrounded by mountains, the boatclub offers you relaxing boat rides. As you move through the lake, on one side you could see a very small deer park where you could spot a couple of antelopes. As we ride on the boat, Nitin tries his hand at rowing, and he wasn't bad at all. Guess he could keep it as a back up career option.

Once we're off the boat, I see a board which says Bunji jumping. (not a spelling mistake by me.. that's how they wrote it) Fully charged, i run to get highly dissapointed to see a boy jumping on a spring mat with huge rubber bands attached to his waist. Anyway, Me, Nitin, Ananya and Unni head to Dashing cars. Here it was quiet different from the other dashing cars I had seen elsewhere. It had only four cars and the duration was longer. Upto 20 minutes, I guess.

So as we stand in the queue, waiting for our turn, a group of four who went before us play in a very interesting fashion. they go around in circles without touching each other. As though they're practicing driving in a round about, they jus keep going round in circles. When they leave after 20 minutes of redefining 'dashing cars', we applaud and cheer them for their great accomplishment. All the frustration however came handy once our turn came.

By now, it's already 630. Without wasting much time, we head to the Botanical garden. A large beautiful garden for people interested in flowers and botany. So if your planning to go there, do some research on botany. Or else just take a walk through the cool garden as we did. The temperature was dipping down and it was simply incredible for a poor soul who made his way from chennai. As the sun set behind the mountains, the place was jus getting lovelier and cooler.

As we head back, we stop at this place where I had spotted shawarma a while back. Shawarma, tea, snacks and then we head home. After a couple of hours at home, we have to move out for dinner. The cold was making us too lazy to move. it was an amazing feeling. I don't remember the last time i enjoyed being so lazy. But still we had to move out for dinner. We again head to the same restaurant we went for lunch.

As I step out before the rest, the hotel caretaker tells me about this 'Kebab Corner' which was a long walk from there as compared to Quality Restaurant. So during dinner itself, I make my mind to go to Kebab Corner after dinner for two reasons. one obviously is my quest for the ideal Kebab, induced by Khaled Hosseini's book The Kite Runner and the other was to enjoy a walk in the cold. Once dinner is over, Nitin, Ananya and Unni join me in the walk. Uncle really can't tolerate so much of cold, so they decide to go home.

The walk was a delight. That's the one best thing to do in Ooty. I was getting a deja vu of Mussoorie. Walking downhill, overlooking the lights of the town. As we reach Kebab Corner, to our dismay, no mutton kebabs were available. So we head back to our hotel room. A half hour in the Cafe Coffe Day before we finally go home. Hot chocolate and sizzling brownies seemed to be made for Ooty and so were the quilts, once we hit the bed. A good night sleep and the next day, we had to see whatever was possible before i reach Coimbatore at 8 PM.

Next morning, after a quick breakfast, we head to Dodabetta. Commonly known as the suicide point, the beautiful location is quiet a treat to the eye. Distant mountains filled with decidous forests, covered by fog appear blue, thus giving the name 'Nilgiris' meaning blue mountains. At that point, the tourism department has instilled a telescope. After a long wait, we were elated to see people getting on and off buses in the busy ooty town. Even Galileo would've never thought of such an amazing application of his invention.

After Dodabetta, next we head to the tea factory. I was hoping to see tea plantations, but it turned out to be just a factory Anyway it's a must visit if you want to get your friends something from there. At the factory they show the entire mechanism, which happens in five stages. 1, withering, where they dehydrate leaves, 2. Rolling, where leaves are cut and curled 3. Fermentation, where the colour of the leaves change and 4. Drying, self explanatory and 5. Grading and sorting to remove dust and other particles

Once you're out of the factory after seeing all these stages, your led to a shop where you get a free sample of tea and you get to buy flavoured tea. I buy a chocolate tea from there for my friends back in Chennai. Form the tea factory, the way moves in to a chocolate factory. A small cottage factory. Here they save us of an explanation of how it is made by showing a tray of liquid chocolate besides one with solid chocolate. Now don't ask me any doubts. We pick up chocolates from there and get going.

After lunch, we're not left with much time, so we plan to see Sim's Park in Conoor which happens to be on the way back to Coimbatore. Sim's Park is one of those amazing things that the British brought to India. Back in 1874, the British established this park and brought in exotic varieties of trees and plants from across the globe. Except for Antarctica, you'll find trees from all continents here. The different types of trees and their intriguing forms are a treat to the eye. The place, like the Botanical garden in Ooty, is a must visit for Botanists and people interested in Flora.

A couple of hours in the beautiful park and it's time to say goodbye to the Nilgiris. The drive down is amazing, the view breathtaking and monkeys hovering around yet again invokes a feeling of joy. Like all good things, the trip comes to an end in a few hours.

Before my trip, I had heard many people say that Ooty has lost its charm and that now it's too crowded. Well, now even I say the same thing. Having been to Yelagiri, known as the 'poor man's Ooty' earlier, I must say that a place like Yelagiri would be a much better getaway. However, Ooty and the Nilgiris have an unparalleled charm. And as John Keats said, a thing of beauty is a joy forever.

Panoramic Europe Tour - Day 5

2009-05-29T06:04:00.000-07:00

This day would be spent mostly on water. First the cruise on the Seine, then on the ferry back to England.

At 1130, we board the “Bateau Mouche”. Passing through the calm waters of the Seine, we get another perspective of the entire city. Such is the beauty of the city that it is believed that Hitler who came to invade the city fell in love with it. And the city was not much different back then. So if Hitler rises from his grave I guess he’d be more excited than my parents were to see Paris. The Louvre pyramid however would be new for him as well.

The bridge passes under innumerable bridges where the local inhabitants wave to us on the boat from the top of bridges. The city has warmth and an undisputable charm that would captivate anyone.

After the cruise on the Seine, it’s time to go back to England. Switzerland and France had been unbelievably warm with the temperature going up to 30 degrees. We were sure England would not be the same. As we approached Calais, the port city of France, we could feel the English weather already

This time our coach goes into a ferry. We get out of the bus and go upstairs to enjoy the ferry. There were options for shopping, eating and drinking. But I chose to go to the deck and gaze at the Channel.

At the top, it was phenomenal. Legally speaking half of the channel is French territory but meteorologically speaking, the whole channel’s weather was bloody British with occasional rain and chilled wind blowing across us. I’m sure the water could make anybody numb. Chilled breeze, no land till far away, water ripples formed by the ferry and clouds of all sorts decorating the skyline; It sure was the bliss of triviality.

After the 30 minute ride, the Panoramic Europe tour ends with a beautiful view of the channel. Now I was sure they didn’t fool us on the Euro tunnel, we really did pass under water. 5 days, 4 countries and infinite memories; I guess I’ll stop before the praises and emotions become superfluous. I also have to take into consideration your patience for having read all of this. Thanks again!

Panoramic Europe Tour - Day 4

2009-05-29T06:02:00.001-07:00

Next morning after breakfast, a six hour drive and the Swiss-French border, we reach a busy traffic jam. The graffiti filled subways lead us to the world’s most visited city. Paris! My parents had been coming here after 20 years. So was I but absolutely nothing in the city would ring a bell.

As we move closer to the city, from a distance we could see one of the few things in the world which deserve their hype, la tour Eiffel.

Standing at 324 m high, this iconic structure towers over the scenic city. The tower comprises of angular legs, followed by first and second floor and then if you move further upwards, you reach the top. The first elevator takes us up the leg. The elevator which takes up to 40 people travels diagonally up the leg. We get off the lift at the second floor. We get an image of Paris from above. Things are only to get better now. Next, we head to the top. After our ears popping a couple of times, we reach the top of the world’s most photographed monument.

What a spectacular view! The entire Paris is laid in front of you. At one side you can see the River Seine with innumerable bridges over it and on other sides monuments and buildings in shades of mostly white and off white. When you’re at the highest point in Paris, romance is definitely in the air. It’s there all throughout the city. As you watch the skyline of Paris you would not miss the sounds of kisses coming from all around u.

After coming down and popping our ears a couple of times again, we head to the Place du Trocadero, which is just down the road from the Eiffel tower. We cross the Seine and we’re amongst huge monuments. My parents were really excited walking down the same roads they did 2 decades back.

The Place du Trocadero gives a beautiful view of the Eiffel tower, one of the most photographed views of the tower. The place is always buzzing with activity as there would always be some performance or the other going on, ranging from street dancing to magic shows.

Soon after we’re done with Trocadero, we move to check in to our hotel but the night doesn’t end there. We would soon be on a night tour of Paris.

At three minutes to 11 pm, we again land up in front of the Eiffel tower lit in golden lights. Just in the nick of time we reach to catch a spectacular light show. At the stroke of 11, sparkling lights shine all over the tower. A huge roar of applause from the spectator adds to the fervour. The 5 minute show of sparkling lights was just breathtaking and I guess I could see it everyday and still get amazed.

Once the sparkling lights go off and the tower is back to its usual golden lighting, we head back to our coach. From the coach, I can see a convertible car with a middle aged couple kissing right in front of the Eiffel tower just after it was at its prettiest. C’est la vie! That moment could be a picture perfect ending to a paperback novel!

We next head to Arc de Triomphe. An arch built in the memory of the brave Frenchmen who laid their life for the country especially during the Napoleonic war. It’s situated on a round about but it could only be seen from the other side of the road. You’re not allowed to get up close and personal with it.

We then pass besides the Louvre, seeing the pyramid. The pyramid was built in 1989. So that was the only part of Paris which my parents had not seen earlier. None the less, it was a great reminiscence for them. From La Louvre, we then pass besides the Obelisk, a gift by Egypt with hieroglyphics. We then pass through Place de Concorde.

The city was so well planned centuries ago that the Arc de Triomphe, Place de Concorde, Pyramid of La Louvre and Obelisk are in a straight line. It would be a bit hard to explain if you haven’t seen the place but nevertheless, it’s great trivia. And it’s now time to catch some sleep. It’s nearly one at night even though you wouldn’t know by seeing the streets, still bustling with life.

Panoramic Europe Tour - Day 3

2009-05-29T06:00:00.000-07:00

We get up in the morning again watching last night’s trailor. Soon we were heading towards Mt. Titlis. After breakfast, we head to the cablecars at Engelberg. The cable cars which take upto 6 people goes uphill from Engelberg towards Trubsee. From inside, other cable cars look like pearls on a necklace. As you pass over the hills, we suddenly hear a symphony of bells. The bells sound more like triangles. We look down to discover they’re cows with huge and different bells.

The cable car stops at Trubsee, from where we change to a bigger cable car which would accommodate more people. This would take us to Gletscherstation Stand. (I just had to refer to the picture of the stand to get the name right). As we move higher, the view just keeps getting better and better. We can see a frozen lake from the cable car. After we reach the Stand, it’s now time for a third cable car, the world’s first rotating cable car. With a good capacity, the cable car had a rotating floor. So the handle attached to the window, which we were holding, had to change after every few minutes. The cable car gave us a good 360 degree view

We finally reach Mt. Titlis. From the final stop, we still had to climb 2 stories and Voila! Snow!!! Seeing snow after around 15 years was too much of euphoria to control. I just ran onto the snow, fluttering my arms like a small kid. I slipped and fell a couple of times but then I got up again and started running all over the place.

We spent a lot of time playing in the snow, throwing snowballs at each other, sliding downhill, and making snowmen. Well, actually destroying others’ snowmen. The place had an igloo, a skiing track (only for professionals), a special cable car to bring the skiers and a breathtaking view. Snow all around and greenery if you look a bit lower. I was surprised I would get to see snow at this time of the year even though Switzerland was really warm. Even Mt. Titlis just seemed to be cool because of the altitude and the earlier lying snow.

I just couldn’t get enough of the snow and Mount Titlis. I was reminded of a magazine on Mt. Titlis I saw the previous night at the hotel. It read “Mt. Titlis – It’s heaven” It indeed was. Coming down the cable car was great as we got to experience the beautiful Alps, frozen lakes and the musical cow bells once again. This time however at a distance, we could see many colourful parachutes hanging in the air. Engelberg is an important destination for paragliding as well.

Later on we have lunch and head to Interlaken. Interlaken is situated between two lakes, namely Brienz and Thun, hence the name which means between two lakes. As we enter the city, we get to see more paragliding. Interlaken is a prime destination for adventure sports. The city is a prime destination for shopping for those with extra surplus disposable dumpable income. Since I don’t fall into that category, I just saw the river Aare which passes through it and left the place

Next was Geneva. As we headed Geneva from Interlaken, the boards changed from Ausfahrt to Sortie (exit in German and French). Geneva would be our first place in the French part of Switzerland. Geneva is a worldwide centre for diplomacy. With the headquarters for the United Nations, many of its branches and the Red Cross, Geneva makes for a perfect global city.

From the United Nations headquarters, across the street is a monumental sculpture, the broken chair. The giant chair with a broken leg symbolises opposition to landmines and bombs. After clicking pictures of the Broken Chair, United Nations Headquarters and many more other headquarters like WMO, UNHCR etc, we head to the water jet.

The jet d’eau located on lake Geneva or Lake Leman is a hydraulic pump which has been fitted on the lake to create a fountain as a tourist attraction. The pump which throws water to a height of upto 140 m is so powerful that at any point of time, there’ll be 500 litres of water in the air. Near the Jet d’eau, my parents bump into an old friend after a couple of years. I’m sure the backdrop of Geneva would’ve made it more special for them. A few snaps later, we head to retire at the hotel

Panoramic Europe Tour - Day 2

2009-05-29T05:58:00.000-07:00

The next day we make our way through the deciduous black forests of Germany to the home of the famous ‘Cuckoo Clock’. The factory itself has been shaped as a huge Cuckoo clock. As we reached there at 11 o clock, a huge wooden cuckoo bird came out of a window and made the cuckoo sound, followed by statues of couples dancing which came outside rotating and dancing.

Inside the factory, the entire procedure of making the clock, its history and the variety of clocks were demonstrated to us. The whole description would take up an entire post, so I stop it right here. We leave the factory at 12 sharp, to see the big cuckoo bird and dancing statuettes again. That was the end of our stint with Germany. Even though we can’t really say we saw Germany.

After lunch, we cross the border into Switzerland to see the Rhine falls, Europe’s largest waterfalls. Passing through deciduous forests and the German-Swiss border, we make our way to the gushing falls. The water was just divine. Its bluish green colour was very tempting. The colour resembled the colour of a glass slab seen from the side. As we wait for out boat which would take us closer the falls, ducks and swans approach us. The swan gets up and does a little act and takes away a lot of applause and attention.

We then get onto a boat which would take us closer to the falls. Passing through the beautiful river we’re now just a few metres away from the falls. As we approach the falls, a zephyr of droplets blows across us. As the heat was rising, the aerosol spray came as such a relief! It was a wild experience as the boat was getting rocky.

Later on we get to move around the falls and see it from the top. The falls were just stunning with lots of greenery around. In the area, they had also instilled a manually operated turbine. The turbine was inside a cylindrical glass container with water and attached to it was a handle which we could rotate. As we rotate the handle, we would create a whirlpool. This was to manually demonstrate how hydropower works.

Our next destination is Luzern or Lucerne as it is called in French or English. The city which is split by River Reuss is a good blend of tradition and modernity. A witness to the turning pages of history, Luzerne ranks high among the topmost tourist destinations in Europe. After a stroll through the city roads and besides River Reuss, we later on go to the Lion Monument.

The lion monument is a carving of a wounded lion. It was built to commemorate the hundreds of Swiss guards who were massacred in 1972 during the French revolution. It’s believed that the artist who carved it was not paid well on time, so he carved the outer frame in the shape of a pig. Even though you might miss the pig while watching it face to face, it’s hard to miss it on a photograph.

That evening, we head to Engelberg. We would stay at a hotel facing Mt.Titlis, one of the most popular mountains in Switzerland. As we moved towards Engelberg, the view was just spectacular with mountains and rivers flowing on either side. At a far distance, a snow capped mountain was visible. That was Mount Titlis. We passed through various picturesque landscapes as we started to ascend uphill towards Engelberg.

Unwinding roads, mountains and small waterfalls everywhere were making for a beautiful spectacle. The picturesque sceneries were only picturesque until half way. After that it was time to keep cameras away and experience the beauty. The air was so clean that anyone from an Indian metropolitan city could get an asthma attack. We finally reach our hotel at Engelberg from where we could see Mt. Titlis and cable cars leading to it.

That night at Engelberg with a balcony facing Mount Titlis was a movie trailor for the whole night. We would be watching the real movie the next morning

Panoramic Europe Tour - Day 1

2009-05-29T05:53:00.000-07:00

On may 21st, 230 am, we set out on the tour. I was accompanied by my parents, my brother Nitin and Anannya, his wife. We leave from Birmingham early in the morning and move towards Folkestone from where we’d catch the Eurotunnel, a tunnel which passes under the English Channel.

Soon we’re next to a railway track and the bus enters a huge coach of the train. The train was a string of huge containers into which all sorts of vehicles could fit. As the train moves it suddenly enters a tunnel and that’s all we could see for the next 40 minutes or so. After the 40 miutes, the train comes out of the tunnel. No signs of water anywhere. We could’ve still been in England. But they told we were in France so we believed them.

From Calais we head for a chocolate factory in Belgium. A small cottage industry with loads of chocolate and luckily free samples too. Chocolates were there in all shapes and sizes. I disregarded buying a few because all shapes and sizes would be the same once they entered India and melted.

After lunch, we head to Brussels. We enter Grand Place, the central market square of Brussels. It is surrounded by guild houses, the city's Town Hall, and the Bread House. One of the most important tourist destinations in Brussels, Grand Place is an architectural marvel with larger than life gothic structures. Built in 1402-1455, the Grand Place has been declared a wolrd heritage site by the UNESCO.

Next, from Grand palace we move through a busy street downhill to catch the world’s most pictured wee. The Manneken Pis was quiet different from all pictures and imitations I had ever seen. It was way smaller than expected. I mean the statue. It was black and not bronze as I had thought it to be. On many occasions, the statue is dressed in a costume. We happened to catch one of the occassions as it was dressed in a black suit with a bow tie.

We next head to get some foreign exchange as we still didn’t convert our British Pounds to Euros. Unfortunately it was 430 pm and all the foreign exchange centers and many other shops shut by 4. Strange as it may seem, 430 is too late to get foreign exchange in the capital of Belgium.

Then we go to see the Atomium. The structure built in 1958 was just built for an Expo. The Atomium is a unit cell of an iron cell magnified 165 million times. Each atom is represented by a huge steel ball with a diameter spanning 18 m.

After seeing the Atomium, we retire at a hotel at Strasbourg in France on the German border. The next day we would head to black forest and the cuckoo clock factory in Germany

Manchester

2009-05-29T00:00:00.000-07:00

For those handfuls of jobless people who make it to this page, first of all, thank you. From here on this blog offers you more. Because now, the game goes international.

2 days after reaching my parents’place in Birmingham, I set out to see Manchester. This time on the tour, I would meet Robel, a long-lost school friend, after 10 years. He was coming from Stoke on Trent, which happens to be midway between Birmingham and Manchester. The plan was to meet at Manchester, but miraculously he joined me on the same coach and I happened to recognize him. Thanks to facebook. Otherwise I probably wouldn’t have even known about his whereabouts, leave alone recognising him.

So we reach Manchester by 1130. Unfortunately, my health and the weather are not on my side. Once out of the coach, we hit old Trafford stadium, the home of Manchester United, as per special instructions by my brother, Nitin, who’s a Manchester United fan. This was just two days after they won the FA title. Unfortunately the official merchandise store was closed. So I settled for an unofficial Manchester United scarf. We take pictures there and plan to hit Peter’s square next.

At the centre of the city, Peters square has a huge central library which resembles the pantheon and many huge medieval structures on all sides. Manchester as a city is a good combination of modern and medieval buildings. The city has old cotton mills and many museums. There’s nearly a museum for anything. Perhaps your grand children might find the watch you’re wearing right now in a museum at Manchester. But lack of time and my fever would not permit us a visit to the museums.

We next head for lunch after a lot of failed attempts at converting Indian Rupees to Pounds. There we meet up with a Manchester united fan who happens to see the Manchester united scarf kept on the table. Elated to see a foreign fan, he approached us with a local newspaper supplement. More than half of it was on Manchester United’s victory. He enquired about my whereabouts and if I would be going to Rome to watch them play EUFA. Finally while leaving he said “It’s a good time to be a Manchester United fan” asking me to keep the supplement as a souvenir. This off course, was way before the UEFA finals at Rome.

Later on we head to the Manchester Eye, a cheap imitation of the London eye, also considering the fact that Manchester doesn’t offer as much of an aerial view as London. I recall a British gentleman who once told me that you can’t say you’ve seen England if you’ve seen London. I don’t know if he was talking about interior England but as far as the cities are concerned, if you’ve seen any one city, you’ve seen it all.

So later on to kill time and to seek refuge from the atrocious weather which was taking its toll on my health, we head to one of the million starbuck coffee shops there. As we enter the café, the rain stops and resumes after our 2-3 hour stint in the café. Left with a couple of hours and with a not so favourable weather, we spend the last one hour or so in the coach station.

To sum it all up, Manchester seems to be the most liveable city in England. As cosmopolitan as London, yet not as expensive. Also not ill-reputed like Birmingham. If you like the British architectural magnificence or if you’re a die hard Manchester United fan, do plan a trip to Manchester.

Hogenakkal

2009-03-09T08:17:00.000-07:00

Hogenakkal. After months of procrastination, I finally got to go to Hogenakkal falls, situated in Salem district of Tamil Nadu. After spending one full Saturday discussing how to reach there, me and Sukrit decided to rope in one more friend, Kiron from Bangalore. We were to go to Hogenakkal in his car. So we left to Bangalore by a Saturday night bus. The bus which had to reach Bangalore by 530, took its own pace, reaching Bangalore at 7 am.

We then head to Kiron’s home near Marathahalli in Bangalore, from where we leave by 11 am. Heading towards the Hosur highway, we have breakfast on the way. We have to make our way through Royakottai and Palacode , before we reach Hogenakkal. Passing through a few bumpy roads and a few tarred ones, we reach near Palacode when Sukrit expresses his desire to drive the car and Kiron agrees. As they exchange positions, a hissing sound from the bonnet catches their attention. We open the bonnet to find a leak. The coolant had been leaking with shining green droplets scattered here and there.

The need of the hour, to find a garage. So we drive slowly asking for the nearest garage. After every hundred metres, we would get to hear that there was a garage another hundred metres ahead. Having covered a couple of kilometers in the process, we finally reach outside a closed garage at around 130 PM. Luckily the gate had a number. So we call on that number and call the mechanic who says he would come in 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile we have our lunch, a couple of omelets and porottas. The next half an hour or so, went in waiting for the mechanic who would open much more than the bonnet.

He detects a leak in a tube carrying the coolant and corrects the flaw by cutting it short and connecting it back. He then opens the pandora’s box as he announces that the car was on a temporary adjustment and the engine would have to be opened once it returned to Bangalore. Following his guidelines of maintaining a speed below 60 km/h, we move on. Sukrit finally gets to drive. As we move ahead, we’re on a speedbreaker, with a bus infront of us. As we’re somewhere in the middle of the road and a bus from the opposite side approaches us with quiet a vengeance, we had to move quickly towards the left, eventually kissing the bus infront of us. Even though it was a soft peck, it was good enough to bring a dent on the bonnet. Shock part 2 for Kiron and part 1 for Sukrit. I was still at the back, enjoying and sleeping.

A few kilometers and we finally reach the valley where Hogenakkal is situated. The road downhill is a delight and the view is like a shy bride who slowly reveals her beauty. With many hairpin bends and lush greenery, it was a beautiful sight. But the waterfalls were nowhere to be seen. Monkeys all along the way also make for a good sight.

We reach Hogenakkal at 330 PM and now only have time until 5 PM, as we have to return to Bangalore to catch a 930 bus to Chennai. As we park the car at Hogenakkal, we are welcomed in true Indian style. With questions like “Sir Boat??” and “Sir Massage?”. The nagging questions continued as if we were deaf. Following the boards and being led adamantly by the boatman, we finally reach a stream where people are bathing and boats are moving allover. The boats here are quiet a phenomenon. They’re round in shape, made of cane, coated by a plastic layer, mounted by a layer of road tar. Though they may seem very rocky, they’re highly steady.

On the way, there are many masseurs who are known for their powerful massages. You also get locally fried fish there. But the crunch in time would only permit us a boat ride. Now it’s time to negotiate rates for the boat. The boatman says Rs. 600 per boat. He further says that he generally only takes 6 people so for even 3 people, it would be the same price. Finally after minutes of negotiation, we bring him down to Rs. 350 for the ride.

At first, you have to cross the stream and once you’re on the other end, you would have to walk a few metres downhill and descend a few stairs to finally reach the waterfalls. Meanwhile, the boatman would carry the boat on his shoulders all the way and we would again get on the boat near the waterfalls. Being off-season, the falls were not at their best. Nonetheless, it was a good sight.

As the boat approached the falls, the zephyrs and aerosol spray of water was truly refreshing. The tiny rainbows in the falls are also a delight. The boatman was talking a lot all the way about how the falls would be much more intense during august and that the song “Chinna Chinna Asai” from the film Roja was shot here. The good part of visiting the place off season is that you get to go even closer to the waterfalls. During August, all the small waterfalls would join to become one big fall and the boat would take you through a stream which goes in a totally different direction.

At a point, we ask the boatrider to stop for 5 minutes so we could take a shower under the falls. He refuses saying that he would charge Rs. 600 if he stops there. Already upset with problems of the car, we replied saying we would only give Rs. 300.

As our boat heads back, we see two boys standing on top of a steep and tall rock. We gesture them to jump down. They scream “pattu roopa”, ten rupees, to which we agree. Before we know it, they dive from approximately a height of 25 feet, and that too for just Rs.5 each. Unfortunately Kiron couldn’t get the camera on time; otherwise it would’ve been a great picture to add to this post. The boys then swim following our boat. We hand over ten rupees before we get off the boat.

As we finally get off the boat, we handover Rs. 300 and walk away. The boatman starts shouting abuses and returns the money saying that he would take nothing short of Rs. 350. We already had a bad day and we didn’t want to give in to his compulsions whatsoever. Having come all the way from hundreds of kilometers away and not getting to enjoy the falls because of a boatman’s ego was enough to add fire to our already existing fury. He threatened not to allow us leave the place if we didn’t pay him Rs. 350. We kept arguing why we were not ready to pay the amount.

Hours of futile argument continued before we remembered a tool that works wonders in India, namedropping. Having worked for the Tamil Nadu tourism department and with Sukrit still working for it, we knew the names of a few prominent people. As we took the names, we could see his face turning pale for a fraction of a second. Quickly managing to hide the fright from his expressions, he walks up with a pseudo-confidence saying “give whatever you’re giving” in a tone through which he was trying to imply that we were the adamant ones.

We atleast leave the place with the contentment of not paying him what he didn’t deserve. We leave Hogenakkal at correct 5 PM. The road uphill was beautiful as the sun was going down. The rays of the sun diffracting atop the hill was adding to the beauty of the valley, and off course, the monkeys too were there having a good time.

We drive our way through the sunset, reach Bangalore on time, have dinner and happen to catch our bus just before it leaves. Though the tour was not all that pleasant, I wouldn’t like to pass on the blame to the place. Hogenakkal is a nice holiday destination and is worth a visit if you stay at Chennai or Bangalore. In case you happen to go, do get a massage and do try the fish fry and let me know what I’ve missed.

Yelagiri - an abrupt trip

2008-12-08T23:12:00.000-08:00

250 km from Chennai and approximately 125 km from Bangalore, in Vellore district of Tamil Nadu lies Yelagiri, a quiet hill station. One reason for choosing the place was because it could be covered in one day and the prime reason, being in Chennai, I was craving to experience a winter. at 930 pm on Saturday night, I left from Chennai to Thirupathur, a town near to Yelagiri. I reached Thirupathur at 230 am Sunday morning.

As I got off the bus, I saw bonfires, a rare sight in Tamil Nadu and there was a slight chill in the air and that too, before even getting ont to the hill. The first bus to yelagiri would be at 530 am. Now I had to spend 3 hours, so I broke into a conversation with two young urdu speaking localites. It might be hard to find Urdu speaking people in Tamil Nadu, but a large percentage of the muslims people speak Urdu, similar to the Hyderabadi dialect. They even said that some of their women do not know Tamil! They told me that the place was pleasant even during summers. The weather never gets as bad as Chennai, they said giving me a cup of tea. They also told me about the Jalagamparai falls which was a bit far from Thirupathur. They shortly left. The next two hours were spent reading the never ending “Atlas Shrugged”. The night was getting colder as time moved on.

530, I get onto the bus to Yelagiri. As the bus moves towards the hills, the dawn is breaking, taking its own sweet time. Once the bus gets onto the hill, we have to go through fourteen hairpin bends before we reach Yelagiri. Sitting next to the driver, I had a good view of the hills and the sunrise. At every bend, the driver was turning the steering wheel four times the circumference clockwise and then anticlockwise or vice versa. Even though the turns were sharp, it wasn’t as scary as many other hills where you get to see a steep pit to your side. The road had a two foot high wall on the side opposite to the hill.

After around 6 to 7 hairpin bends, there were groups of monkeys jumping around from one place to another. It was quite a welcoming sight. The monkeys however are not found at the top the hill. After another few hairpin bends, I get to see many hotels, guest houses and restaurants. I also came across a point known as the Telescope point, a place where a telescope is instilled and from where you can view down the hill using it. Shortly I reach Yelagiri. Stepping out of the bus, I feel a good winter chill. Finally, I had to take out my denim shirt, my t-shirt wouldn’t suffice.

I get off the bus and start walking asking directions. First of all I head to a murugan temple. It’s believed that wherever there’s a hill in Tamil Nadu, you would find a murugan temple. The temple was still not open at 730. It would take half an hour. I didn’t wait for so long. I headed down to where I got off the bus. Tackling my way through barking dogs, I made it to a local shop where I had breakfast. After that I was just strolling down the road when a board caught my attention. The board would be a new change in my tour. It read “Cameras for rent.” What a great idea? Was wondering why people living in other tourist spots never think of such an idea.

So I go inside the studio. He gives me two options, one autofocus camera for hundred and an SLR camera (professional camera where focus, aperture etc are set manually, in case you don’t know) for two hundred rupees. For a long time, I had been contemplating a camera purchase. Off late I had even been thinking of buying a professional camera over a usual digital one. The only problem being I had never used an SLR . I took this as an opportunity to check if I could use one. So now the trip changed to a photography assignment.

With the heavy camera and a heavy bag, I walked into a place called “Nature park”. What a waste of Rs.15 that was! Good it was only 15. It was just like any other garden or park with nothing to see. There was a nursery of rosesand even that was locked. The rest of the park just had lawns. The name sounded as though it would be a sactuary. I still take out my camera and click a few pictures. The SLR was a bit of a problem. Many times when I half clicked to check the light exposure, I happened to click pictures. Juggling aperture and focus was another menace.

From there, I moved to a boathouse on Punganur Lake, a manmade lake specially as a tourist attraction. It was a good scene of a lake with mountains and clouds as a backdrop. I clicked a couple of pictures and came back. Boating was to begin in half an hour. So I went out and took a handful of random pictures before I returned to the boathouse. After reaching there I came to know that we weren’t allowed to row. We could only sit on the boat. Else we could ride pedal boats, which I otherwise also never interested me.

So I left the place and moved on. Now I ask a few localites about places I have to see. It’s 11 am and I finally made my mind to go to the Jagdamparai falls a bit far down hill and a place called Mangalam which was uphill, supposed to be a place with a wonderful view. I had to wait for two hours in order to go to Mangalam. So I resolved to take a Thirupathur bus and then go to Jalagamparai falls from there. I get on to a bus when a colleague calls me. My art director Jerry asks me where I am. I laugh and tell him Yelagiri. He laughs louder and says me too. Another turning point in the trip.

Jerry, along with another senior, Madan were accompanying a professional photographer Sudarshan on a photo shoot. It was a routine photo shoot they had to do as Tamil Nadu Tourism happens to be our client. Continuing the phone conversation, Jerry tells me that they were coming uphill and stopping from point to point clicking pictures. So I decide to get off the bus at telescope point after which I would be joining Madan and Jerry. The telescope point was a good idea, though not executed at the best possible place, at least in my opinion.

I later join Jerry and Madan and we go exploring places to get the best of angles for taking pictures. Touring is very different when you go for taking pictures professionally; quite a time taking procedure. We later have lunch together and go exploring places. by the time we explored two places and exhausted my reel, it was already four and sleep had started taking its toll over me. I succumbed to a half hour power nap and soon left for home.

By 430, I return the camera and leave for Chennai, leaving Mangalam and Jalagamparai for some other time. My incomplete trip comes to an abrupt end. I came back by train from Jolarpet, a prominent junction and another close town. Through just a three hour journey, it was horrible with no place to sit. Lack of sleep added to the horror. Nevertheless, it was another great experience.

Now I’ve developed the reel and attached the pictures on this post. Jerry and Madan have come back to office after going to a few more places. They’re saying Jalagamparai is really beautiful. I’ve taken their word for it. The pictures confirm the fact.

Yelagiri, to be said in brief is not amongst the greatest tourist spots. You don’t miss much if you miss it. But if you stay at Chennai or Bangalore, it sure would be a pleasant getaway; peaceful, pollution-free, many routes for trekking and ample initiatives taken by the department of tourism.

Tranquebar - the place of the singing waves and reiterating history

2008-11-10T03:47:00.000-08:00

Another trip which I had been planning for a long time. Tranquebar, the European version of Tarangambadi which means the place of the singing waves. The place is famous for Dansborg Fort, a Danish fort, in fact the only Danish fort in India.

3:40 at night, I reach Tranquebar after seven hours and changing two buses, the last one a three and a half journey from Pondicherry. Sharing a triple seat with two oversized men, I don’t know how much of sleep I managed. Or if at all I managed any.

The first thing I see as I step out of the bus is a group of fishermen waiting for buses to go to places and sell their catch. As I walk off the highway, I see goats sitting, sleeping and walking on the road. A truck comes along the way, waking up a couple of them. I then spot a tea shop. I have a tea, converse with the locals asking them about the places and what all there is to see, apart from the fort. To this, one of them quickly replied “we’re here”. They told me I was way too early. I thought nevertheless, I could go and see the beach.

As per the directions they had given, I walked straight through the dark night and dark roads. Ahead in a distance, a colony was visible with a decent amount of lighting. I move towards it. And there’s an old gateway at the entrance, the gateway of Tranquebar. Just as I enter, the sound of the waves reaches me, a loud and spooky sound. As I move forward, the sound gets lost. I make my way through a few European architectural structures. A few of them seemed to be churches and a few others were hotels. And then I reach a rocky beach. Towards the southern direction was a huge structure. Even though the lighting was meager, I could figure out it was the Dansborg Fort.

I moved closer to the sea. The “place of the singing waves” was at its melodious best. The waves in the darkness were very loud, spooky and mysterious. So I decided to sit on a rock there and kill time. But the scary sounds of the wave made every muscle in my body tighten. In due course of time, I conquered my fears and sat on the rock, slowly starting to enjoy the music. It was still just 430. Waiting for the sunrise, I sat down and started to pen down a few thoughts, stimulated by the sound of the waves.

Tranquebar and the symphony of mystery
The waves roar louder and louder
Bringing alive many an emotion!
They join hands to create a symphony
Or melancholy, yet of rejuvenation.

When the night is at its darkest
and stars are hidden by clouds,
the waves collide with rocks
and create that enigmatic sound.

The sound can not be deciphered by mind;
It converses with the soul.
It elevates you to a higher level,
A euphoria one can not control!

Thoughts just wander aimlessly
in a pensive state of mind.
Searching for answers and reasons,
we trivial humans can never find.

I’m still waiting for the sun to come out of the sea
and give it’s first rays, still rubbing it’s eyes
To give a new dawn and shed some light
over nature’s musical instruments in disguise

Slowly the sea turns from black to dark blue
The sun is on it’s way
A shooting star falls from the sky
What more can I wish for today?

As I write it, the sun is slowly rising. After that, I move closer to the sea. A man was standing there. A localite who had just come to see the sunrise. I break into a conversation with him. Navaneetha Krishnan tells me about the beautiful sunrise at the ozone rich beach. “The high contents of ozone helps maintain the cool temperature of the breeze and it’s ideal for people with breathing problems” said the high school physics teacher. We then were talking about nearby places. He mentioned the karaikal beach and velankani church as other places which have to be seen.

Then he pointed at a structure towards the northern direction. It was a 13th century temple built by the pandiyans, the Masillamani temple. “It is the only Indo-chinese temple” he said, a temple which was built by collaboration of the Pandiyans and the Chinese which incorporated both styles of architecture as well as prayers. Alas, the temple was reduced to a single structure due to sea erosion, cyclones and the tsunami. It was initially a temple of three mandapams which were built into what was now the sea. We went closer to have a closer look of the temple as the temple.

While taking a stroll back from the temple, I was being told about the tsunami. Navaneetha Krishanan said he was in Pondicherry at that time and he returned to see a flood of dead bodies. The rocks which were in the sea caught my eye. The looked like a group of bricks. They were in fact, the walls of the temple, another victim of the devastating Tsunami!

Later he talked about the dutch colony which had settled in the area. The Danish came in 1602 and built the Dansborg fort. They sent two german missionaries for propogating crhistianity and for social service, Barthalomeus Ziegenbalg and Plutschau. Ziegenbalg was apparently a friend of John Guttenburg who invented the printing press. Ziegenbalg, brought the printing press to India. He learnt and mastered Tamil in two years and printed the Tamil Bible. That was the first book printed in India, in the first printing press in India.

Later on Navaneethakrishanan returned and I went around seeing the place, waiting for the fort to open at 10 AM. There was a cross erected besides the sea. A memorial dedicated to Ziegelbalg and Plutschau. There was a New Jerusalem church built in the 17th century, a Zion Church and a few schools, some of which were boarding schools. One interesting fact about Tranquebar is that it is a place of great religious harmony. With numerable churches, mosques and temples in the same area.

Next I see a Ziegelbaulg memorial which enlists his achievements. I instantly developed a great admiration for the man, not only because he mastered Tamil in two years and I am still not able to talk Tamil properly, (even though I have heard it all my life and have been in Chennai for over 7 months now) but because he was the first to do many things in life. I have always believed it is more important to be the first, rather than to come first. And here was a man who was the first to carry out several tasks. Apart from the previously mentioned accomplishments of the Tamil Bible and printing press, he was also the first to start a girl’s school, first to write the Tamil dictionary, calendar etc. He also wrote a great deal on south Indian gods and conducted inter religion dialogues. I’m surprised how much a man can do in a lifetime.

Then I move along the beach in order to kill time, take pictures of the rising sun, and relax on boats on the seashore, enjoying the ozone rich breeze. Right besides me, a fisherman comes out of water with his catch. I get to see the process of taking fish out of the net. I never thought it was so tedious. The fish’s jaws are stuck to the net when it is caught in the net. So the net which comes like a huge ball is unwound and then spread out and fish which are stuck to the net are pulled out. The funniest is to see crabs being pulled out. When the fisherman manages to release legs on one side of the body and goes to the other end, the crab again entangles its legs on the first side to the net. The whole process took half an hour and the amount of fish was only enough to half fill a bucket.

So now with two hours in hand, before the fort opens at 10, I have breakfast and roam around when a man comes out of a white ambassador car. Since the car looked like a government car, I thought he had come to open the fort. But he was another visitor like me, a doctor from Thanjavur who has written a few books on traveling, a great history enthusiast. We waited for some time and the gate opened at 10 am sharp. The fort is a big structure, though not occupying a lot of space. It would hardly be 2 acres of land.

It was in a colour and architectural style alien to us at India. It was nothing similar to the other European structures in Delhi or Pondicherry or even the other structures in Tranquebar; the churches were built in german architectural style. The first floor was the godown, prison and rest area for the soldiers. The first floor was the residence of the governors and the priests. The ground floor consisted of many empty rooms and hallways which were ideal for lovers to write their names and spoil a structure of archeological and national heritage. This aspect was used to its full potential with names scribbled in all languages. Anybody could find his/her name there.

The second floor was converted to a Danish Indian museum. There were many things from pots to weapons used by the Danes. The old history enthusiast doctor loved it so much, it looked like he was getting nostalgic and as if he had eaten from those pots. A small museum rather which extended to three rooms. From the first floor, It was a nice view of the sea. It was breezy and airy.

The fort was built by the Danish in 1620. Tranquebar or Tarangambadi was a very busy port and the capital of Thanjavur back then under the Chola king Vijaya Raghunatha Nayak. They first bought the land as trading centre from the king and with his permission, the Danish built the fort. Tranquebar was the first colony of Denmark at a time when Norway was also a part of Denmark. The fort marked the beginning of the Danish East India Company. By 1777, Tranquebar was completely under their control. In 1845, the fort was bought by the British and is now under the control of the Archaeological department.

By 11, I leave tranquebar. It was a short affair as I had to come back home and catch up on a lot of sleep.

Tranquebar, a place like no other, is a place of so much historical importance, yet not a part of our history text books. It is a matter of shame for us that despite such importance and beauty, tranquebar is still one of the lesser known tourist destinations.

Rameshwaram - my trip story

2008-10-10T23:55:00.000-07:00

Epilogue

Ever since I heard of two consecutive holidays on Wednesday and Thursday, I’d started planning a “Tour de Tamil Nadu” starting from Rameshwaram and covering Tranquebar. The other places were yet to be decided and so were my “casual leaves” on the following two days, Friday and Saturday.

Things went haywire when a client woke up on Tuesday evening and gave work with Friday afternoon as the deadline. Which now meant Wednesday as well as Thursday could not be off. “No problem” I thought. I thought of coming on Wednesday morning, doing my share of work and leaving by afternoon. Then Thursday to Sunday would be mine. I was yet to intimidate my boss about my desire to take two days casual leave preceded and succeeded by holidays.

Wednesday morning, I was in office partly doing my work and more keenly reading about Rameshwaram. I was done by 130 PM. I mean done with work. Now time to call my boss! This was a difficult task but I felt I would manage. I called him and told him the status of work and that the next day I wasn’t coming to office. Quiet ironic because the next day was a holiday and I had to ask for two more days holiday. He said “But you’ll be available through phone, right?” “Yes I’m going to Rameshwaram but I’ll be available on my phone.” He asked me how I was going, to which I replied “By bus” in a slightly shaky tone. “FFFFOOOOLISHHH” came his reply. “Never take a bus for more than 250 kms.” followed by “book train tickets”. I hung up saying I would find out what could be done.

I called him back in 10 minutes after checking the names and timings of trains. I called him and told him I would book tickets in waiting list itself and leave. I also said I wanted to be there on dussehra. I had pulled the right string of the religious man. He finally agreed and said “It’s up to you but it’s better you go by train instead of bus”

That was it. I hit the road saying bye to my only colleague in office. Lachu handed over Rs. 50 for me to deposit in the temple. “First let me see if I make it” I said. To which he replied. “Off course you will. You’re determined.”

After lunch and packing, I reached the railway station a bit too late to book a ticket for that day’s train. Nevertheless, I booked a return ticket. Lachu’s words somehow made things look right for me. Next I went to the bus terminal and took the 545 PM bus.

Before 615 am the next morning, I have dinner, watch a tamil movie “Ghilli” in the bus and manage a decent 5 hours of sleep. Everything was perfect except the extra letter h in Ghilli.

Rameshwaram

615 am. The bus stops. We passengers come out of the bus. I’m still yawning. I’m surprised how we reached so early while the conductor said the arriving time was 730. I go to a shopkeeper and ask him where the temple is. He gestured to the right. Suddenly a sight catches my eye. A few passengers are still in the bus. I rushed and asked the conductor “Isn’t this Rameshwaram?” He smiled and said no. That’s the next stop. That was Ramanathapuram.

So I went back to the bus and tried to catch up on some sleep. All in vain! A few minutes later, the sight was worth missing out on sleep. The bus was on a bridge on the sea. That’s when I realized Rameshwaram is an island! Hilarious as it may sound!

A beautiful sea it was indeed! With boats scattered on both sides, and the sun just rising, the view was spectacular. I knew I had chosen the right destination to visit. A few minutes later I ended up at Rameshwaram bus stop. I now go about asking directions, places to visit, having tea etc.

By 8:00 I end up in front of the Ramanathaswamy temple, one of the most important hindu temples. In fact, one out of the four ‘pavitra dhaams’. It is believed that a hindu’s life is incomplete without visiting the four pavitra dhaams. I have no idea about the other three but was glad I made it here.

I didn’t have a shower by then because I read about the “Teertha” where most pilgrims bathe before entering the temple. I’m now infront of a board which reads Teertha Rs.7, Tax Rs. 10. I was making my way to the counter when I was called from behind. A man said “slippers outside”. As he led me the way, he asked “Bath or #@$ ?” The second word sounded gibberish so I chose bath. He hastily took me to the counter, bought tickets and kept them in his hand.

I was led to this deep pond. He pulled a bucket of water and SPLASH! He poured it on me. I asked him if I could atleast take off my shirt, controlling my temper. “Half pant” came a question and “towel” went the answer. He next took me to another similar deep pond. But this one was small enough to be called a well as well. The well was divided into three parts namely Ganga, Jamuna and Saraswati. He called me towards him and poured water from all three parts.

The man was still running and calling me. He was rushing inside the temple. I was behind him in the templein just a towel. He then told me the first Teertha is Durga. The other three were Ganga Jamuna and Saraswati. I still couldn’t figure out what he meant until he continued saying each of Ganga Jamuna and Saraswati would cost me Rs. 50 each, adding to Rs. 150. He then went rushing ahead. I stopped for 2 seconds turned around and went back “ To hell with him and his Rs. 150” I thought

I later entered the temple properly dressed. There was a queue of about 40 people in front of the first idol, that of Ramanathaswamy. The temple was beautiful with various idols of Lord Shiva, Godess Parvathy, Hanuman and Lord Ganesh. There were many Shivalingas, the Chidambaram Nataraja performing the cosmic dance and a larger than life idol of Nandi the bull.

Luckily, I didn’t see the teertha man again and I found my slippers just where I removed them. After darshan I moved for breakfast and had the best Vadas ever. Later I moved down the road coming from the temple and I end up in front of sparkling blue water. I’ve atleast been to 20 beaches in my life but I’d never seen the sea in this colour! Took my phone and started clicking pics. I regretted not having a camera.

I then moved along the coast seeing a few boats, wondering if there were any boat rides. But I ended at the wrong end for boat riding. Clicking pictures, I suddenly realized that my mobile battery nearly drained out. I had to do something. I came up with an idea of finding a cyber café. If they had a charger, I could charge my mobile enough. So I headed to a nearby shop asking him where the nearest cyber café is. He told me directions. I thanked him and just asked him if he had a mobile charger. Yes came the answer. Ten rupees he said. That didn’t seem much considering the requirement. He cut a Rs. 10 token and gave it to me. The next half hour was spent there ensuring my mobile phone didn’t vanish. I left half an hour later with a half charged battery

Ramapadam (Ram’s footprints) was the next destination. The auto driver said 100 Rupees for five other places as well. So I moved to Ramapadam then. Ramapadam is a temple where they claim to have preserved Lord Rama’s footprints. It is worshipped. Above the temple, one can get a bird’s eye view of Rameshwaram. Breathtaking is the word. White sand, greenery, brown sand, windmills and temples all around, surrounded by the sparkling blue sea. The island from above made me feel like I was in some other part of the world or in another world altogether. I would be surprised if any cameraman could do justice to the view that captivates the eye with such fervour.

After that, the automan took me to a few other temples. All had some relation or the other to the epic Ramayana. Rameshwaram is believed to be the place form where Lord Rama and his Sena built a bridge of floating stones to Lanka. One of the temples claims to preserve one of those floating stones. Another is place where Lakshamana worshipped Lord Shiva and the stories go on…

My story then goes to the most boring part. An eventless hour spent at a cyber café just because I felt I had too much time. Suddenly I realized I had just around Rs.150 left with me. Red Alert! I had to find an ICICI ATM or any other which accepts ICICI . I finally found an SBI ATM. But the transaction could not be carried out. The only other ATM was Bank of India. Again Bad luck! After calling ICICI Customer care, I got to know that on public holidays, you could only withdraw cash from the ATMs of your bank. The nearest ICICI ATM is Ramanathapuram, more than one hour by bus. Going there and coming back would mean missing Dhanush Kodi.

So I had lunch from an affordable place and headed to Dhanush Kodi with the hundred something bucks that I had. Dhanush Kodi is believed to be the place from where Lord Rama built the bridge to Lanka. I waited for nearly 20 minutes for the bus. After a 30 minute ride though usual Tamil Nadu roads and unusual conifer trees, we reached the Dhanush Kodi bus stop. A swarm of people entering the bus were obstructing our way out but we somehow managed our way out through the chaos.

Next I’m walking along the beautiful beach wondering “what next?” I was sure this wasn’t it. I had read and heard about land and stones on the sea, in the direction facing SriLanka. But this was just a usual beach, unusually beautiful though but it wasn’t what I was looking for. I looked ahead along the coast and saw the coastline protruding. I felt this was it. I rather was confident that was the place. So I started walking towards it.

I could see water at the exact opposite direction to the beach as well. That was a rather narrower part of the island. Water was visible on both ends. Once again time to take out the invention of the century or should I say last century, the mobile phone to take pictures.

I kept walking along the coast in the scorching heat. It was now getting harder walking on the loose sand as it was taking much more effort. After walking for 2 to 3 kms, I asked a man how far the Setu was. He stretched out his palm and said 5 km. “Damn! 5 more kilometers on the sand?” I thought. I still continued walking looking at water at either ends. Then I saw a truck moving half way between either coasts. So I thought I could rather walk from that part of the island. Atleast it would take less effort.

I kept walking while another truck approached. I gestured him to stop and was in two minds. But once the truck stopped I just hopped on. The driver said Rs. 50. I had a financial crisis but I couldn’t let it come in my way. I nodded

I got on to the back of the truck. The backflap which serves as a door and which opens vertically downwards, was our footboard. I had to stand behind a snobbish man who wasn’t ready to move or adjust. So here I am standing on a flap, clinging on to whatever piece of metal or rope I could find around and my hands stretched out, thanks to Mr. snobbish.

The truck ride would’ve even been a boneshaker ride for people comfortably seated inside. It was like a 4wd driving on sand dunes. The trucks would be at a slight angle from the ground on every turn and where the soil was loose; trucks had made a deep trail. A slight deviation from the trails caused more havoc. The worst however were sharp left turns. I was at the right corner clinging on to pieces of metal and rope and the sharp left turns were pushing me away with a strong pseudo force. I had to balance by shifting all my weight to my right leg and countering the sideward pushes from people to my left. It was like the famous fevicol truck ad. I was sure Piyush Pandey had been here.

After the bumpy ride, I was at Dhanushkodi, the Setu with red hands, printed with rope marks. A few meters away, in the water was another piece of land. Many such pieces of land and rocks would be there on the 18 km stretch of water between Rameshwaram and Sri Lanka. Just 18 km away from Sri Lanka! That’s the closest I’d been to my birth place in the last 23 or so years! I was wondering if the other end of the sea was also as stunning.

Again time for click click click. I then entered the water. It was so calm and clear. I could see where the water was getting deeper. The sand was loose even inside water. My foot was sinking in the sand beneath the water. I’d been to places with wilder waves and sudden descends in the sea bed. This was calm and clear but still this part of Rameshwaram didn’t seem to be the right place to venture. Moreover after hardly 10 minutes, the truck was leaving back to the bus stop.

Time again for boneshaker part 2. I chose to sit above the truck. It was fascinating. I still had to hold on tight to ropes but jus to stop me from falling. Earlier I had to cling on to them. On the way back, the truck stopped at an old firangi church which has now eroded and an old railway station which has been demolished. The railway tracks until here would erode very often, so they demolished the station some 50 years back

I wonder how the firang (I’m not sure if they were British) managed to build a church in such a desolate piece of land which is all sand. I also wondered where the Vanara Sena got all their stones for the Setu because all you can see from there is sand and water

Now I’ve reached back to the Dhanush Kodi bus stand. The time is 5 PM. I have to plan my next move. With around hundred rupees, getting on to the train with a waiting list ticket would be risky. Even if I managed to the bribe the TT, I would need money for dinner and to reach home from the Chennai railway station. So my next destination was Ramanathapuram because that’s where the ICICI ATM was. I had to catch a bus from Rameshwaram.

The bus for Rameshwaram had still not come by 5:25 PM. I was remembering the bus in which I came to Dhanush Kodi. How people were hurrying to get on to the bus while we were trying to alight the bus. I looked around to see if we were going for an action replay. Not many people around. I felt we would comfortably board the bus.

At 530, the bus arrives and I suddenly feel like I’m in a Mumbai Local train. Everybody’s pushing each other to get a seat. Many people still left to leave the bus. A handful of foreigners who just made their way out of the chaos were totally pissed off. I couldn’t stop laughing at their consternation.

There were loud quarrels for seats which were getting louder but never broke in to physical fights. That’s because volume was their only weapon. The screeches of women demanding ladies seats and brawls and arguments in all Indian languages were way noisier than the crackers which would be burning in all parts of the country around that time to burn the effigies of Ravana. I reach Rameshwaram at 6 and within 2 minutes, I leave Rameshwaram for Ramanathapuram.

Prologue
At 6, the Rameshwaram bus stop was the same as I had seen in the morning. The same amount of light. Only the sun had changed it’s direction.

The whole drive from Rameshwaram to Ramanathapuram was the morning’s bus ride being rewound.

I reached Ramanathapuram at 7:30. Luckily, the bus stop, the ICICI ATM and the Railway station are not far from each other. So I withdraw some money and by 8 pm, I’m at the railway station. I’m bored so I start writing the epilogue for the journey and the power goes out at 8:30. This was the first time I saw a power cut in a Railway station and hence thought it deserves a mention in the blog, even though it was just for 5 minutes.

9:30 I get on to the train. The train left Rameshwaram on time. I board the train. My waiting list ticket is now an RAC ticket. I let my RAC partner sleep on the berth and I’m writing this on the TT’s chair next to the door of the train. The time is.. My mobile is again drained out. The TT just told me It’s 1 am. I’m still asking him for a berth and he’s till walking up and down saying he’s trying. I might as well sleep on the floor over a bedsheet or wake my RAC partner and tell him to share the berth.

I don’t know how I’ll sleep or if at all I would sleep. But tonight I’m glad for visiting Rameshwaram. I don’t know if a hindu’s life is incomplete without visiting Rameshwaram or if a nature lover would feel complete by visiting Rameshwaram. All I know is that is, by far one of my best holiday destinations. The only thing I regret is not going for a boat ride. But I will definitely next time. So is there a next time? I can bet my life on it.