I’d been planning to revisit the mangrove forests of
Pitchavaram for quite a while. After having visited the place 4 years back in
the month of August, I planned to visit the place again in winters as the sun
was a bit too harsh during my previous visit. Also the best time to visit the
place is from October to February. So we finalised our plan during Pongal
holidays. As Chidambaram is on the way, we also decided to pay a visit at the
famous Thillai Nataraja Temple there.
Me and Soumya reached Chidambaram on 14th at 1 by
train. The temple was yet to open at 4. We had a good 3 hours to while away. So
we spent one good hour having lunch at Vandayar hotel, which is highly
recommended for the food, and another 2 hours at the roadside shops near the
temple.
At 4 finally, the gates to the shrine opened. Dedicated to
Lord Nataraja, this ancient temple of the Cholas is unique, not only is it
devoted solely to the art of Bharatanatyam, but also it is one of the rare
temples where Shiva is represented by an idol rather than the customary lingam.
Spread over an area of 40 acres with a gopuram on each side, the temple is
distinguished by five sabhas or courts.
The main entrance, the eastern gopuram is an imposing
figure. 40.8 m high, it has 108 dance poses of the Ananda thandavam, Lord
Shiva’s cosmic dance, engraved on it. As we enter the sanctorum, parallel rows
of pillars make way to idols of Lord Shiva, Lord Murugan and Ganesha.
The temple of goddess Shivakamasundari, consort of Shiva, is
situated on the west side of the Shivaganga tank. A flight of steps leads down
into its courtyard. The goddess is worshipped here as the Jñana Shakti: the
energy and power of wisdom.
It took a good 40 minutes for us to cover the entire temple.
Once we were done, we decided to go to Pitchavaram by Auto rickshaw instead of
going by bus. The auto driver who first brought us from the railway station to
the temple agreed to take us there for a reasonable Rs. 300. That was the best
auto rickshaw ride ever.
A half hour ride under open skies and by open fields was a
delight. At the end of the hour long ride, we reached the Saradharam eco
tourist resort in Pitchavaram, where we had booked our room. It is the only
resort available there. The other option for visitors is to stay at Chidambaram
and drive down to Pitchavaram
We reached the resort at 6, right in time to catch sunset.
There were hardly two people managing
the resort. Maybe because it was Pongal. The only good thing about the
resort was an open air restro-bar facing the back waters and mangroves. The man
taking our order himself went to the kitchen to prepare our order. And to give
credit where it’s due, did a decent job.
After a good night’s sleep, we finally headed for the
mangrove forest in the first batch that starts at 8 am. Pitchavaram is the
world’s second largest mangrove forest spanning 1100 hectares. The options
provided by the tourism department to explore the forests are rowboats and
motorboats. Rowboats for one hour cost
two people Rs.150 and Rs.300 for 2 hours. Motorboats have longer trips for up
to 4 hours. But we went for two hour ride on a row boat as they take you
through narrow canals.
Our boatman asked for an extra Rs.300 to take us through a ‘longer
route’. Even though we knew he was bluffing, we agreed. While travelling, it’s
always in our best interest to keep the locals happy. From the shore, he rowed
for a good 20 minutes to enter the forest through a canal. Once we entered the canal,
he rowed slowly and told us the names of each mangrove species by their
scientific names!
The forest is also home to many birds, including migratory
birds. The boatman told us that most of the birds leave early in the morning
and return at night. Which is ironic considering the timings that the forest is
open to visitors. The boatmen told us
that the only animals that lived in the forest were foxes and seals. They lived
off crustaceans and fishes they could find in water.
He told us there were no snakes but later on we found a dead
snake lying in water. To which the boatman told us that it was a freshwater
snake that died on reaching the estuary as it couldn’t survive the saltwater.
Another interesting aspect of many mangroves that we got to see was aerial
roots that stem from the water to breath.
The ride was a peaceful two hours with just the sound of the
oars splashing on water and birds chirping around as we made our way through
canal after canal. At the end of the two hour long ride, the serene atmosphere
leaves you hoping for more. An hour after the brief rendezvous with nature, we
were on the next bus to Chidambaram and then from there, back to Chennai.
